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2 in Ready Lift or 2.5 inch BDS CO Lift

Ryder24

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Hello I’m new to the forum so go easy on me. I have a 2020 TB 6.2 with 18 inch wheels and yes the loudest Duratrac tires ever. Which by the way is strange because I ran three sets on my old 08 Tundra and the road noise was nowhere near these tires

im not a true off road enthusiast. I’m more of a hunter so I spend time hunting or scouting. And as we all know to get where the big buck/elk are usually means finding the road less traveled. So I do push my trucks to their capabilities.

any way looking for advice/opinions on either adding a Ready Lift level kit which includes new control arms. Then I am adding 20 inch wheels and 295 65 20. BFG AT KO
So with this set up I’m a 0 offset no trimming and about $5k less out of pocket The disadvantage is the loss of the Auto all wheel drive. Which living in Phx isn’t a need on pavement much. But it’s nice for ripping down dirt road
other option is BDS 2.5 CO with 35 x 12.5. I’ve read these are nice kits and it has a great warranty Supposed to improve ride and off road capabilities. No loss of Auto Draw back is price and trimming is required. I’m still a little confused on which wheels I can use. I think I need a -18 offset and it will kick the tires outside the wheel well some. It positive though

any without maybe saying both those kits suck whats going to
Improve off road use
add to on road ride quality
look better
what are the negatives of each
 

Jmzvet

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I’ll just go with what I know to be true.
I have the ReadyLift 2in kit with Toyo 295-70 (34in) Open Country III , stock 18in wheels, and 1.5in wheel spacers. Prior to the spacers, There was zero rubbing. After adding the spacers, minor rubbing in the front wheel wells near the mudflaps. I trimmed the flaps, removed the metal bracket, and pulled back the wheel liner and zero rubbing.
I’ve had no problems using auto 4wd.
The Toyos are quiet and the truck rides /handles better than factory new.
I have no experience with the BDS kit but Ive heard nothing but good things about the company.
The ReadyLift is about $450 and the BDS is WAYYYY more expensive!
Good luck with your choice👍
 
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Tin Can TB

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Hello I’m new to the forum so go easy on me. I have a 2020 TB 6.2 with 18 inch wheels and yes the loudest Duratrac tires ever. Which by the way is strange because I ran three sets on my old 08 Tundra and the road noise was nowhere near these tires

im not a true off road enthusiast. I’m more of a hunter so I spend time hunting or scouting. And as we all know to get where the big buck/elk are usually means finding the road less traveled. So I do push my trucks to their capabilities.

any way looking for advice/opinions on either adding a Ready Lift level kit which includes new control arms. Then I am adding 20 inch wheels and 295 65 20. BFG AT KO
So with this set up I’m a 0 offset no trimming and about $5k less out of pocket The disadvantage is the loss of the Auto all wheel drive. Which living in Phx isn’t a need on pavement much. But it’s nice for ripping down dirt road
other option is BDS 2.5 CO with 35 x 12.5. I’ve read these are nice kits and it has a great warranty Supposed to improve ride and off road capabilities. No loss of Auto Draw back is price and trimming is required. I’m still a little confused on which wheels I can use. I think I need a -18 offset and it will kick the tires outside the wheel well some. It positive though

any without maybe saying both those kits suck whats going to
Improve off road use
add to on road ride quality
look better
what are the negatives of each
Let us know what you go with; I'm going down the same road as you, but cross shopping the 1.5" CO from BDS against other systems that replace the coilover up front to level the truck.
 

NVav

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I’m in the same boat. I don’t care to spend the money on coil overs right now. I’d be happy with the ready lift level kit if I could just find a way to drop the diff to keep the 4 auto. Can’t find a kit with just a crossmember and diff drop…
 

Tin Can TB

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I spoke with a tech at Ready Lift and they told me, not sure how true it is, that we will lose 4A no matter what lift we use. That the issue isn't the axle angles, but rather the increase in tire size diameter causing havoc with the onboard computer that sends power to the front tires during a loss of traction. He said it would cause a terrible vibration as power is bounced to the front left/right tires as the computer tries to figure out which tire is losing traction. I asked if a tire size correction was done via Pulsar LT or the various other methods if that would correct it, and he said not that they have discovered.

Additionally I spoke with a tech at BDS and they assured me that 4A will work fine and that they have never heard of 4A being a problem after lifting with their kits. (I specifically asked about the 1.5" coil cover kit that does not drop the front diff and is very similar to the ready lift kit with the addition of replacement coilovers).

Doesn't inspire a lot of confidence from either vendor...
 

NVav

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I spoke with a tech at Ready Lift and they told me, not sure how true it is, that we will lose 4A no matter what lift we use. That the issue isn't the axle angles, but rather the increase in tire size diameter causing havoc with the onboard computer that sends power to the front tires during a loss of traction. He said it would cause a terrible vibration as power is bounced to the front left/right tires as the computer tries to figure out which tire is losing traction. I asked if a tire size correction was done via Pulsar LT or the various other methods if that would correct it, and he said not that they have discovered.

Additionally I spoke with a tech at BDS and they assured me that 4A will work fine and that they have never heard of 4A being a problem after lifting with their kits. (I specifically asked about the 1.5" coil cover kit that does not drop the front diff and is very similar to the ready lift kit with the addition of replacement coilovers).

Doesn't inspire a lot of confidence from either vendor...
No kidding. I paid 62k for my TB. Not worth the risk to me.

I would love to see some more research prior to doing anything at this point. I’m sure strut length, strut spacers vs no spacers, wheel spacers, wheel sizing, etc. all play into it.

Which makes me think, what if something as simple as wheel weights falling off & causing an unbalance can cause issues with the power management in 4 auto? 🤔

& whoever is saying the CV stress isn’t the issue with 4 auto. Maybe… but who wants the stress on their CVs anyways… in 4 a stand alone diff drop & cross member drop kit when someone puts one out without having to pay for a full lift kit
 

Jmzvet

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I certainly haven’t driven in 4A for the entire 10,000mi since I’ve had the ReadyLift but I never had any of the problems mentioned above.
 
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