Anyone use bilstein upper control arms?

OK…

After all of my research I went to pull the trigger on the Bilstein 6112 / 5100 w/ Bilstein UCA and Shock Surplus is back ordered on the 6112’s for 4 - 6 weeks. Have Bora 1/4” spacers on the way just to be safe. Had not pulled trigger on the tires yet.

@Transient your 285/75r18 is on stock wheels without a level, correct? I am thinking of going ahead with a mudflap delete and doing the tires before the struts are available to ship. I know I can find them elsewhere, but the SS guys were very helpful. If this works with a reasonable amount of wheel well trimming and no run it opens the doors to a Fox 2.0 instead (would not get the level, which I am mostly doing for fitment with the 35’s).

Looking around it seems the RC delete is the most popular, any others I should consider?
Correct. Stock wheels, no level or lift (yet). Rough Country and McGaughy's make mud flap delete kits. Rough Country is half the price of McGaughy's. McGaughy's are available through Summit Racing. I consider RC to be the Harbor Freight of truck modifications and wanted a quality product, so I went with the McGaughy's. That's really snobby of me, but I'll own that. With that said, I do have the Rough Country Speedometer calibration tool. I couldn't justify the Pulsar LT when all I wanted was to calibrate the Speedometer. However, when I bought the kit I got it off Amazon so I could have it more quickly. When it arrived I discovered the packaging was open and the contents had been used on a 2021 Silverado. I contacted Amazon and they gave me a good discount. The Amazon store I purchased from was also Rough Country, so buyer beware. It appears they take returns and then flip it for resale without repackaging. The zip tie was unsecured to the product, plastic bag containing hardware was ripped open, and even the data on the device provided the VIN number of the previous user. I'm very wary about buying from Rough Country, but that's just my experience.
 
Correct. Stock wheels, no level or lift (yet). Rough Country and McGaughy's make mud flap delete kits. Rough Country is half the price of McGaughy's. McGaughy's are available through Summit Racing. I consider RC to be the Harbor Freight of truck modifications and wanted a quality product, so I went with the McGaughy's. That's really snobby of me, but I'll own that. With that said, I do have the Rough Country Speedometer calibration tool. I couldn't justify the Pulsar LT when all I wanted was to calibrate the Speedometer. However, when I bought the kit I got it off Amazon so I could have it more quickly. When it arrived I discovered the packaging was open and the contents had been used on a 2021 Silverado. I contacted Amazon and they gave me a good discount. The Amazon store I purchased from was also Rough Country, so buyer beware. It appears they take returns and then flip it for resale without repackaging. The zip tie was unsecured to the product, plastic bag containing hardware was ripped open, and even the data on the device provided the VIN number of the previous user. I'm very wary about buying from Rough Country, but that's just my experience.
Any reason you have avoided the AFM/DOD delete that would come with the Pulsar? Weighing this as I think about Speedo / shift calibration for larger tires. The RC kit looks interesting but I do not love the fact it lives in the footwell area. I guess you can zip tie it up out of the way, but I have a hard time visualizing and keep thinking it will get knocked around / out.
 
Any reason you have avoided the AFM/DOD delete that would come with the Pulsar? Weighing this as I think about Speedo / shift calibration for larger tires. The RC kit looks interesting but I do not love the fact it lives in the footwell area. I guess you can zip tie it up out of the way, but I have a hard time visualizing and keep thinking it will get knocked around / out.
I know what you're referring to, but I think there's reasons to not be as wary of the DFM on my truck. I was burned in 2012 on a 2007 Tahoe with DOD. I had ~96k miles on my odometer when the engine failed. The vehicle had a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, but was expired due to time. I was the 2nd owner. The first owner bought the vehicle in March 2007, but the failure happened in September 2012. The vehicle had been burning oil, and I was in top of it. I even upgraded the radiator to the one the PPV/SSV Tahoes had to increase total oil capacity. When the engine failed I was headed back home to Chicago after attending a funeral in Salt Lake City. My wife and 2 year old son were with me. We excited the freeway in Laramie, WY, filled up with gas, checked the oil, then headed to a nearby drive thru for a dinner on the go. I then got back on the freeway, set the cruise control and the freeway started climbing the canyon. Right when the transmission shifted and engine speed increased the knocking hearkened and the engine let go. To keep my wife and son safe I limped it to the rest area about midway up the canyon and had a you're truck pick us up and take us to the Chevy dealer in Laramie. My options were to wait for a rebuilt engine from Denver, wait for a new engine from Denver, or buy the biggest and cheapest thing I could afford with $10k negative equity rolled into the loan. My wife was a young officer that was only a few months into her new command, and I was yet to find work since we'd just moved 2-3 months prior from Virginia. Her command said they'd give her an extra day or 2 but that was all, so waiting a week for a new engine was not an option. As you can tell, this situation is very clear in my head today and I wouldn't be fully honest if I didn't say I am slightly concerned about another engine failure. However, I'm older, more experienced with tools that I think I could figure it out should it happen again. GM's planned obsolescence is 150,000. Based on my driving history that's about 6 years away. My wife and I are more established financially, and my kids are older, so if shtf again I think I'll be able to fix it myself. Additionally, when things happened in 2012 I had a friend that was a former GM supplier, mechanical engineer, beta tester for HPTuners, and working with a couple NASCAR teams because of the switch to EFI. Looking at what happened with my engine he believed the failure was GM allowing the valve to open and close while the fuel injectors were turned off by DOD. Fuel cold air temps that were increased during compression. Because the tempos were allowed to keep rising the oil was scorched, the piston rings corroded due to lack of lubrication, and this lead to failure of the valves/lifters. In 2014 GM announced the 2015 engines with changes to the camshaft assembly that allegedly alleviated the problem I experienced. I haven't heard of any 2015+ engines having the lifter failure I experienced, so a little bit of confidence in GM Engineering has been restored. If I get bit again that's on me. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. I am hoping this truck lasts me 200,000-300,000 miles, minimum. I understand maintenance will be required, and that is to be expected. Just as long as it's not a major engine or transmission failure.

As for the RC speedometer calibrator, you don't need to worry about dangling wires, nor zip tying it out of the way. Next to your dead peddle is the firewall. The interior plastic trim goes up to the bottom of the dash/knee bolster. The device can be tucked to the left of dead peddle behind the plastic trim and there will be no issues with your foot. The box and wire harness it plugs into are right in that area. RC designed it to be easily removable should you decide to change your tire size Shaun, or find your initial calibration is off and needs tweaking. I've had mine installed since the beginning of August 2023 and there have been zero issues with its location.
 
I did , to go with my 6112s and clears just fine, no spacers !
Are you running stock height with the stock rims? I am also planning on the 6112 at stock height and I would love to use these. Are they the 51-322335? The only difference is that I am running the 18 inch wheels and looks like you are on 20's
 
I have Bilstein control arms. No spacer was needed with 18's and stock size tires. I had to add a 3/8" spacer to clear 295/70/18's on stock wheels.
One question on the 3/8 spacers, how much thread is left for the lug nut? I’ve had a set of Bora hub centric spacers sitting in the shop for a while. Thanks
 
These are Bora’s. Can’t remember how much thread exactly, but it’s been plenty. At least 14mm. They’ve been on there ~8k miles with 35’s for 5k of those.
 

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