Blacking out emblems gone wrong....

[BigBadChevyMN]

So I tried a new product last night Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap to black out the emblems on my 21 CTB and to put it bluntly it was a terrible experience. I have used Plasti Dip numerous time on other vehicles and it worked great; good coverage, peelability, removing any overspray was very easy and didn't affect any material on the vehicle. This Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap product was the exact opposite... I only used it because it was on the shelf at the store and it was supposed to be gloss black and not matte black like Plasti Dip (next time I will just order Hyper Dip and call it a day or suck it up and just buy the OEM black emblems).

Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap sprayed just fine but was never a true black color that was similar to the black paint of my TB. As I sprayed the product and waited the advised time between coats I noticed that it wasn't adhering to the red and the silver parts of the Z71 emblems on each front fender. I thought maybe it just needed more coats as many a little bit of the car wash soup wasn't fully dried from prepping the vehicle for this project but come to find out after the finish just wasn't what I expected and trying to remove the product it peeled the red detail out of the Z71 emblem.... I used a micro fiber towel to remove following the directions. It took me over 3 hours and a 30 minute stint in the local do it yourself spray car wash using the power washer and soup at 11pm last night to get the remaining product off of the emblems. That would have been great if it ended there but it then took me another hour vigorously scrubbing with a detail spray and micro fiber towel to remove the small amount of over spray that felt literally like cement on the paint.... Hopefully the paint swirls and any remaining residue comes out over time with washing but I'm thinking I will need to get the vehicle ceramic coated or something to get the paint corrected....

Hopefully someone else had a better experience with this product but I certainly will not be using this again. It should not take off material from the vehicle emblems.

 

[PHXPHOTOG]

Since you brought it up I will add my own blackout frustration. I replaced my tailgate lettering and Z71 emblems. First, the new black badges I ordered from Amazon claimed to be OEM and 3M adhesive. They were neither. So, if I was going to do it again I would start by making sure I had true OEM badges. Second, I tried the two removal methods most often recommended on YouTube, heat gun and fishing line. Those videos are BS. Getting the factory badges off is the easy part. The mess your left with after that is a total PIA. Bottom line is it becomes a painstaking job for your fingernails. Goo Gone does almost nothing to help with the adhesive you must remove. In fact, until you are down to the final super fine last layer of glaze Goo Gone tends to just smeer the adhesive around contaminating clean areas. It is not an easy process. Then, when I finally applied the new badges (cheap China crap) I discovered the tape on one of the Z71 plates was not properly affixed to the badge. It left a small gap between the top of the badge and the fender. That really pissed me off.

Apparently 3M makes a buffer wheel for a hand drill that "erases" the old adhesive. I have not tried that method. I didn't like the idea of hitting new paint with something like that. Maybe that was my bad? Also, don't listen to anyone that says you can lightly stick the new badge and then adjust it slightly for perfect placement. It is a one shot deal. Get it right the first time.

Thats my story and I'm STICKING to it.

Kind Regards,

Steve

 

[BigBadChevyMN]

Since you brought it up I will add my own blackout frustration. I replaced my tailgate lettering and Z71 emblems. First, the new black badges I ordered from Amazon claimed to be OEM and 3M adhesive. They were neither. So, if I was going to do it again I would start by making sure I had true OEM badges. Second, I tried the two removal methods most often recommended on YouTube, heat gun and fishing line. Those videos are BS. Getting the factory badges off is the easy part. The mess your left with after that is a total PIA. Bottom line is it becomes a painstaking job for your fingernails. Goo Gone does almost nothing to help with the adhesive you must remove. In fact, until you are down to the final super fine last layer of glaze Goo Gone tends to just smeer the adhesive around contaminating clean areas. It is not an easy process. Then, when I finally applied the new badges (cheap China crap) I discovered the tape on one of the Z71 plates was not properly affixed to the badge. It left a small gap between the top of the badge and the fender. That really pissed me off.

Apparently 3M makes a buffer wheel for a hand drill that "erases" the old adhesive. I have not tried that method. I didn't like the idea of hitting new paint with something like that. Maybe that was my bad? Also, don't listen to anyone that says you can lightly stick the new badge and then adjust it slightly for perfect placement. It is a one shot deal. Get it right the first time.

Thats my story and I'm STICKING to it.

Kind Regards,

Steve

Steve,

I appreciate the heads up in regards to removal and replacement of the badges. I will certainly go the OEM route even though they are rip off from the stealership...

I have seen a few videos online of people using the adhesive removal wheel with good success as well as Turtle wax adhesive remover. I might have to try both and see what works the best. My plan is to lay out with tape the alignment of the current badges for correct placement and see how it goes.

I will report back my trials and tribulations.

 

[Wakinvol]

Use mono fishing line to saw through the adhesive...but first tape off the area with blue painters tape using the existing emblem as a template. (for proper replacement with the new emblems) Also run a drizzle of 3m Adhesive remover over the top side of the emblem to be removed prior to the mono and let it soak down for about 5 minutes. It will come right off. Any remaining adhesive use more of the 3m and a microfiber towel and it will be gone too. Just be careful not to rub your tape off in the process.

 

[wesg79]

braided fishing line makes the cutting of the adhesive much much faster and breaks less

3m adhesiver remover helps with the stubborn Z71 logos, i stuck a goo gone cloth on the adhesive a few minutes to soak in then the 3m ahdesive remover helped, they were still a major PITA compared to most but that made it much easier

 

[DonJinIA]

I've used margarine (parkay) to remove adhesive. ( I know, when I heard this I didn't believe it either. )
Take a generous amount of the "butter" and smear it on and around the adhesive.
Let it set for 30 minutes and then wipe it off with a rag.
The margarine breaks the adhesive down.
It might take 2-3 applications to get most of it off.
I then follow up with a rag containing paint reducer.
Once it's off, warm soapy water to remove any reducer residue.

I've used this trick on many things over the years.
I believe at one time I tried real butter but it did not work as well as margarine.

 

[PHXPHOTOG]

Ok I'm sure your serious, but I just sprayed my beverage all over the screen reading this as "Parkay Margarine" jokes ripped through my head. And I can't post them! Do they still sell that stuff? Is it found in the solvent isle of AutoZone now because no one eats it on their toast. It dissolves 3M adhesives!!! That part does not surprise me.....Then you follow it up with paint thinner...sounds like a hazardous material mix that might melt your tires if it drips on them!

Kind Regards,

Steve

 

[DonJinIA]

Ok I'm sure your serious, but I just sprayed my beverage all over the screen reading this as "Parkay Margarine" jokes ripped through my head. And I can't post them! Do they still sell that stuff? Is it found in the solvent isle of AutoZone now because no one eats it on their toast. It dissolves 3M adhesives!!! That part does not surprise me.....Then you follow it up with paint thinner...sounds like a hazardous material mix that might melt your tires if it drips on them!

Kind Regards,

Steve

Lol, we still use parkay at our house.
Every time I put it on toast there is a slight cringe in my stomach.

 

[PHXPHOTOG]

DonJinIA, I'm glad you replied, because of course I meant no offence. Sometimes there does not seem to be a lot of humor on this board.

I looked at all of my aftermarket badges today. If you look close the Amazon badges do NOT seat as well as the factory badges did. Nothing to do with install. Just cheap crap. The plastic does not mate to the painted surface as well as the OEM plates did. There is a slight gap that will be there forever. They look OK until you really check it out close. It might get worse over time? I'm not totally crazy about this mod. We will see.

Steve

 

[DonJinIA]

DonJinIA, I'm glad you replied, because of course I meant no offence. Sometimes there does not seem to be a lot of humor on this board.

I looked at all of my aftermarket badges today. If you look close the Amazon badges do NOT seat as well as the factory badges did. Nothing to do with install. Just cheap crap. The plastic does not mate to the painted surface as well as the OEM plates did. There is a slight gap that will be there forever. They look OK until you really check it out close. It might get worse over time? I'm not totally crazy about this mod. We will see.

Steve

PHXPHOTOG, no offense taken, yes people need to lighten up a little these days.

I still have the OEM Z71 badges on my truck but looking at the blacked out ones.
I put the blacked out "SILVERADO" and "LT" badges on my tailgate.
They are slightly smaller than the OEM ones but I figure I'm probably the only one that notices it.
They still look good.

Don

 

[DittoTB]

Since you brought it up I will add my own blackout frustration. I replaced my tailgate lettering and Z71 emblems. First, the new black badges I ordered from Amazon claimed to be OEM and 3M adhesive. They were neither. So, if I was going to do it again I would start by making sure I had true OEM badges. Second, I tried the two removal methods most often recommended on YouTube, heat gun and fishing line. Those videos are BS. Getting the factory badges off is the easy part. The mess your left with after that is a total PIA. Bottom line is it becomes a painstaking job for your fingernails. Goo Gone does almost nothing to help with the adhesive you must remove. In fact, until you are down to the final super fine last layer of glaze Goo Gone tends to just smeer the adhesive around contaminating clean areas. It is not an easy process. Then, when I finally applied the new badges (cheap China crap) I discovered the tape on one of the Z71 plates was not properly affixed to the badge. It left a small gap between the top of the badge and the fender. That really pissed me off.

Apparently 3M makes a buffer wheel for a hand drill that "erases" the old adhesive. I have not tried that method. I didn't like the idea of hitting new paint with something like that. Maybe that was my bad? Also, don't listen to anyone that says you can lightly stick the new badge and then adjust it slightly for perfect placement. It is a one shot deal. Get it right the first time.

Thats my story and I'm STICKING to it.

Kind Regards,

Steve

I have the 3M buffer wheel and used it on my 18 to remove all the Silverado lettering AND the Silverado & LT lettering on my 21's tailgate. It's like $50 but I never had a problem with it. It's akin to a wax wheel that slowly wears down with use. It took the goo right off no problem and cleaned up nicely. Most auto parts stores have this wheel. Hope that helps.

I'm about to remove my stock Z71 side badges, the grill badge and the original Trail Boss decals as well and replace with all black versions. I hope the large badges I bought from Amazon work out. At least the adhesive covering on the back SAYS 3M. I'll have to study up on how to safely remove the Trail Boss decals. Here goes nothing.

 

[2019TBOSS SUMMIT WHITE]

Tried the dip your car stuff on my Z71s and hated it so I peeled em right after.
As for the tailgate I just debadged the whole thing using a plastic bladed box cutter off of amazon and 3M citrus base adhesive remover also from Amazon.
Ordered the jet black Z71 emblems off of amazon but made sure they stated 3m adhesive in the description. A little pricey but look and feel are spot on. Main thing here is def painters tape to block off the old ones then sprayed the remover and waiting 5 min for it to work it's magic. Citrus stuff was like 30 and emblems were like 50. I am not handy in any way but the right tools made it worthwhile. I did the black and white flag chevrolet lettering on the tailgate and get compliments all the time.

 

[BigBadChevyMN]

Tried the dip your car stuff on my Z71s and hated it so I peeled em right after.
As for the tailgate I just debadged the whole thing using a plastic bladed box cutter off of amazon and 3M citrus base adhesive remover also from Amazon.
Ordered the jet black Z71 emblems off of amazon but made sure they stated 3m adhesive in the description. A little pricey but look and feel are spot on. Main thing here is def painters tape to block off the old ones then sprayed the remover and waiting 5 min for it to work it's magic. Citrus stuff was like 30 and emblems were like 50. I am not handy in any way but the right tools made it worthwhile. I did the black and white flag chevrolet lettering on the tailgate and get compliments all the time.

I ended up taking off the Z71 badges and using a plastic dash trim removal tool which worked well and then I purchased a adhesive removal wheel from Amazon and it worked out great! Took the adhesive off immediately.

 

[DittoTB]

Awesome. I used a heat gun, fishing line and this 3M adhesive removing wheel on my drill. Worked great. Not the cheapest wheel out there for sure.

 

[BigBadChevyMN]

Awesome. I used a heat gun, fishing line and this 3M adhesive removing wheel on my drill. Worked great. Not the cheapest wheel out there for sure.

I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018WG2XYE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

worked exactly the way I wanted it to and was super cheap!