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ECM reprogram/DFM delete?

JD319

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Phoenix. AZ
Current Ride
2019 Chevy Silverado Trail Boss Custom
Current Ride #2
1973 chevy CK10
Looking for those who have done a full DFM delete, IE: New cam and lifters.
where did you get you ECM reprogramed? how much did it cost?
 
Looking for those who have done a full DFM delete, IE: New cam and lifters.
where did you get you ECM reprogramed? how much did it cost?
I'm following myself. Would like to know also
 
According to Donslife on YouTube, he states that putting transition in manual mode, one less than maximum speed, ie: L9 for 10 speed, L7 for 8 speed, M5 for 6 speed - will disable DFM/AFM. He owns/drives a Silverado and says that a viewer has validated his claim with an ecm reader. If true, this is an easy no cost way to disable AFM/DFM. This is just FWIW, so please don’t shoot and gut the messenger.
 
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According to Donslife on YouTube, he states that putting transition in manual mode, one less than maximum speed, ie: L9 for 10 speed, L7 for 8 speed, M5 for 6 speed - will disable DFM/AFM. He owns/drives a Silverado and says that a viewer has validated his claim with an ecm reader. If true, this is an easy no cost way to disable AFM/DFM. This is just FWIW, so please don’t shoot and gut the messenger.

Yes, this does work...but the question here is not how to temporarily turn off DFM, as that doesn't solve anything. What the OP and many others are looking for is a path to actually cure the DFM issue - i.e. remove the offending lifters. To do that we need a way to permanently remove all DFM functionality from the ECM, and as of yet no one on this site has confirmed that that can actually be done.

OP - I have yet to find any confirmation that this has successfully been done anywhere (DFM specifically, I know AFM deletes have been done), and knowing how difficult any kind of programming is on the T1 and newer trucks, i'm not confident that it's actually possible. But if it is, i'd love to know too.
 
Looking for those who have done a full DFM delete, IE: New cam and lifters.
where did you get you ECM reprogramed? how much did it cost?
I did the the DFM delete, but I just use the DFM fooler in the OBD port for now till I get more info and who can do it locally.
 
Just to update - I now have confirmation that it CAN be done. Several guys on the HP Tuners forums have given step-by-step instructions for how to disable DFM in the ECM. I have not however contacted any "for hire" tuners about it so I can't say who is willing to do it. With those instructions available, I will just purchase an HPT license for my VIN and do it myself.
 
I've done a DFM delete on my 2020. I started a thread on a recent spare engine where I'm doing the mechanical side of the delete. I'll make another thread in my spare time on how to do the tuning side via hp tuners.

You will have to send your ecm to hp tuners to have it unlocked. You'll need to purchase an hp tuners MPVI3 and then pay licensing costs. For a global A 2019-22, that's about $1000. For a 23+ Global B its a bit more, but the unlock and licensing is currently on sale.
 
Any HPTuners vendor that tunes (writes or sells others tune) will do the delete...it is not an emissions required part from what I understand. It was meant to meet the mileage requirements Obama set forth...
 
I did the the DFM delete, but I just use the DFM fooler in the OBD port for now till I get more info and who can do it locally.
An update on my DFM Delete. When put it back together, I reasoned that if I had had a DFM fooler plugged into the obdII port, I didn’t the oil controller valves and wires, so left it all out of the valley, put it all back together, started it up and it runs beautifully… except for a pesky engine light on the dash, I was rather satisfied I was victorious! But slowly over time little gremlins would show their head, weird messages, turn off motor and restart, shifting started to get strange, I couldn’t clear the codes. So I determined that unless I send out the ECU to get it reprogrammed, it was always going to look for the parts it was missing. So I pulled the top of the motor off and managed to fit all the solenoids and wires back under the cover ( thankfully I didn’t throw them out) put it all back together, and viola, engine lights went away, shifting improved and power increased. I think I still need the Fooler, but I’m not 100% certain yet, but I’ll let you know.
 
obviously, you can do as you wish...but after all trouble, i would have left those parts out and had it tuned. if or when i need to head down this path, a stock sized cam will not be going back in. i would at least look for some power increase, any additional torque is welcomed...let alone any additional HP.

if needed, i would have to think real hard about NOT doing a L8P swap.
 
obviously, you can do as you wish...but after all trouble, i would have left those parts out and had it tuned. if or when i need to head down this path, a stock sized cam will not be going back in. i would at least look for some power increase, any additional torque is welcomed...let alone any additional HP.

if needed, i would have to think real hard about NOT doing a L8P swap.
Obviously That was the original plan, which why I left them out in the first place, but I could not find someone to tune out the DFM. We live in remote area in BC Canada, so it’s tough find those services that doesn’t disable the vehicle for 3 weeks.
 
Here's a YouTuber who has done the work on his wife's Trail Boss:
 
Here's a YouTuber who has done the work on his wife's Trail Boss:
Watched this video shuddering at the steps I thought I was ahead… only to realize, nope gotta drop the crossmember, then to realize I had to drop the the steering rack, ugh!
 
you dont have to, you can get the timing set off without dropping the pan. lots of us do it that way.
 
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