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Follow up to original post - "spare wheel and tire options after installing a lift kit with larger wheels and tires"

Bowtie

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So I wanted to post this thread to hopefully help any other members here who have lifted their truck and installed larger wheels and 20"x35x12.50 tires like I have, who want to utilize the factory spare well to avoid having a wheel in the bed of truck, not break the bank for a spare, may be unsure of what wheel/ tire combination will fit in the spare well and will actually work on the road in the unfortunate situation that you actually need it.
A HUGE credit is also due to the the members who responded to my original post with suggestions, products, and other info that was a great help to me getting the right combination.
Links for all products and media will be posted .
I mounted a 35"x11.50x17 Toyo Open Country AT3 on a Rough Country 17"x9" -12 offset black steel wheel. I wanted to match my other 4 tires as close as possible but chose to go with the 11.50 tire to save a little money and keep the spare tucked away as much as possible.
I then used a 1/2" hub centric wheel spacer to avoid any clearance issues up front, and a hub centric ring due to the fact that that the wheel bore is 108 mm and the spacer was for a 106 mm.
In a perfect world it would be best to order a custom machined spacer with the exact dimensions you need and not have any extra parts, but in this situation it will be used for emergency use only and it works just fine after road testing.
I went with bare minimum thickness on the wheel spacer to avoid creating clearance issues and having to deal with the extra complications with studs. This spacer slides right onto the factory studs to simplify a roadside installation.
The shop that did my lift put Gorilla lug nuts on and they worked great for the final bolt up. Sorry I don't have a link for them.
Fittament/ clearance, and road test - clearance on the front caliper was about a 1/4" , and this may differ on other year trucks. I would have liked to see a little more but had zero issues with contact when road testing.
On the rear the caliper clearance was closer to 1/2" and road tested perfect as well.
My road tests were just that, no off road but simply driving at different speeds on secondary roads with no highway speed tests. This truck is road driven 99% of the time. My thoughts are that if I had to use my spare I would immediately get to a shop and get my normal tire replaced or repaired asap.
Stowing the spare - The bore of the Rough Country wheel is larger than the factory spare so the steel puck on the end of the hoisting cable will not work as it is to narrow. To correct this problem I used the adapter ring from Range and it worked perfect to bridge the difference.
Once I cranked the wheel up into the spare well it fit nicely with about a 1/2" of clearance from the heat shield and trailer hitch. Clearance from my Borla S Type exhaust was at least 2 - 3".
In the end I'm extremely pleased with how everything turned out, and that I still have full use of my bed.
Hopefully this post will be of use to any folks who find themselves with needs similar to mine.
Please note: In no way do I proclaim that this set up is the absolute one size fits all best way to go. It simply does what I need it to do.

See pics, and links for the parts I used below:

Aftermarket Wheel Adapter for Spare Hoist 106.1mm to 108mm Bore (Silve – Range Industries
Chevy GMC 6x5.5 Hub Centric 1/2" (13mm) Wheel Spacers Silverado Sierra – Wheel Adapters USA

WHEEL CONNECT Hub Centric Rings,108 to 78.1, Set of 4, Aluminium Alloy Hubrings, O.D:108mm I.D 78.1mm.

A https://a.co/d/dpB8X8u
2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT Trail Boss Steel Wheels | Rough Country

Toyo Tires Open Country A T III 35x11.50R17LT | 355920 | Custom Offsets
 

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Does the RC wheel rub on the caliper without the spacer?
 
just starting this process myself. need to see if the factory spare clears the front upper RL arms...

looking to do a 35x11.50 as well
 
just starting this process myself. need to see if the factory spare clears the front upper RL arms...

looking to do a 35x11.50 as well
I had a good 2" with the BDS UCA, and about an 1" - 1 1/2" from the tie rod end.
Thanks for your previous input. It was a huge help to me with piecing the right components together on the first shot.
 
thank you immensely for doing the leg work on this. im waiting on my 35's to arrive and have been trying to figure out options for the spare. you made it too easy to spend the extra money this morning.

any particular reason you went with an 11.5" spare vs 10.5"? I know you said you wanted to keep the tires as similar as possible, but for the purposes you mentioned of just getting you off the side of the road, seems like you could save a few $$ and have a bigger margin for fitment by going 35*10.5*17 to get you to a shop.

Im thinking about picking this up as it seems to be the most economical option while accomplishing the goal of just getting me home....

 
thank you immensely for doing the leg work on this. im waiting on my 35's to arrive and have been trying to figure out options for the spare. you made it too easy to spend the extra money this morning.

any particular reason you went with an 11.5" spare vs 10.5"? I know you said you wanted to keep the tires as similar as possible, but for the purposes you mentioned of just getting you off the side of the road, seems like you could save a few $$ and have a bigger margin for fitment by going 35*10.5*17 to get you to a shop.

Im thinking about picking this up as it seems to be the most economical option while accomplishing the goal of just getting me home....
thank you immensely for doing the leg work on this. im waiting on my 35's to arrive and have been trying to figure out options for the spare. you made it too easy to spend the extra money this morning.

any particular reason you went with an 11.5" spare vs 10.5"? I know you said you wanted to keep the tires as similar as possible, but for the purposes you mentioned of just getting you off the side of the road, seems like you could save a few $$ and have a bigger margin for fitment by going 35*10.5*17 to get you to a shop.

Im thinking about picking this up as it seems to be the most economical option while accomplishing the goal of just getting me home....



thank you immensely for doing the leg work on this. im waiting on my 35's to arrive and have been trying to figure out options for the spare. you made it too easy to spend the extra money this morning.

any particular reason you went with an 11.5" spare vs 10.5"? I know you said you wanted to keep the tires as similar as possible, but for the purposes you mentioned of just getting you off the side of the road, seems like you could save a few $$ and have a bigger margin for fitment by going 35*10.5*17 to get you to a shop.

Im thinking about picking this up as it seems to be the most economical option while accomplishing the goal of just getting me home....

Glad to hear that my post helped you get a handle on your spare tire set up.
I probably could have saved a few bucks and got away with the 10.50, but my thoughts were to simply dot my i's and cross my t's with the whole set up to avoid any issues if I ever had to use the spare in a situation where I traveled 5 miles and rolled onto a truck tire friendly shop, or had to drive another 50 miles in the middle of the night, or in a time frame where there just wasn't a good place to get back to my original set up. You just never know what can unfold.
As long as you stick with a 35" height tire you should be fine. The 10.50 will be less visible too.
Venom's are a really popular tire and will definitely serve you well.
Don't forget to consider the tools you will need to do the job, as the OEM tools and jack are now pretty much worthless except for the rods that piece together to lower the spare.
 
i recommend, if wheeling (or general, as i have had them fail)...ratchet strap your spare in place...the cables are not very strong against a shock load.

i am ordering a Y-style ratchet to hold the spare in place.
 
That's a great insurance policy. Things could get pretty ugly in some situations if the spare got loose.
I may look into getting some form of strap myself.
 
i had one come out from under a lowered silverado, lifted the rear up and rolled tot he side...bent an axle and tore off the roll pan.
 
i had one come out from under a lowered silverado, lifted the rear up and rolled tot he side...bent an axle and tore off the roll pan.
Sounds pretty nasty. It could easily be enough to roll a lifted pick up if it really jacked the truck as you rounded a corner.
I decided to play it safe and ordered a 3 point ratchet strap to hold mine in.
I have a pretty good chunk of change tied up in mine with all pieces needed to make it work and would not be happy if I had to buck up twice for it, not to mention the potential damage to the truck itself or someone else's vehicle.
 
So I wanted to post this thread to hopefully help any other members here who have lifted their truck and installed larger wheels and 20"x35x12.50 tires like I have, who want to utilize the factory spare well to avoid having a wheel in the bed of truck, not break the bank for a spare, may be unsure of what wheel/ tire combination will fit in the spare well and will actually work on the road in the unfortunate situation that you actually need it.
A HUGE credit is also due to the the members who responded to my original post with suggestions, products, and other info that was a great help to me getting the right combination.
Links for all products and media will be posted .
I mounted a 35"x11.50x17 Toyo Open Country AT3 on a Rough Country 17"x9" -12 offset black steel wheel. I wanted to match my other 4 tires as close as possible but chose to go with the 11.50 tire to save a little money and keep the spare tucked away as much as possible.
I then used a 1/2" hub centric wheel spacer to avoid any clearance issues up front, and a hub centric ring due to the fact that that the wheel bore is 108 mm and the spacer was for a 106 mm.
In a perfect world it would be best to order a custom machined spacer with the exact dimensions you need and not have any extra parts, but in this situation it will be used for emergency use only and it works just fine after road testing.
I went with bare minimum thickness on the wheel spacer to avoid creating clearance issues and having to deal with the extra complications with studs. This spacer slides right onto the factory studs to simplify a roadside installation.
The shop that did my lift put Gorilla lug nuts on and they worked great for the final bolt up. Sorry I don't have a link for them.
Fittament/ clearance, and road test - clearance on the front caliper was about a 1/4" , and this may differ on other year trucks. I would have liked to see a little more but had zero issues with contact when road testing.
On the rear the caliper clearance was closer to 1/2" and road tested perfect as well.
My road tests were just that, no off road but simply driving at different speeds on secondary roads with no highway speed tests. This truck is road driven 99% of the time. My thoughts are that if I had to use my spare I would immediately get to a shop and get my normal tire replaced or repaired asap.
Stowing the spare - The bore of the Rough Country wheel is larger than the factory spare so the steel puck on the end of the hoisting cable will not work as it is to narrow. To correct this problem I used the adapter ring from Range and it worked perfect to bridge the difference.
Once I cranked the wheel up into the spare well it fit nicely with about a 1/2" of clearance from the heat shield and trailer hitch. Clearance from my Borla S Type exhaust was at least 2 - 3".
In the end I'm extremely pleased with how everything turned out, and that I still have full use of my bed.
Hopefully this post will be of use to any folks who find themselves with needs similar to mine.
Please note: In no way do I proclaim that this set up is the absolute one size fits all best way to go. It simply does what I need it to do.

See pics, and links for the parts I used below:

Aftermarket Wheel Adapter for Spare Hoist 106.1mm to 108mm Bore (Silve – Range Industries
Chevy GMC 6x5.5 Hub Centric 1/2" (13mm) Wheel Spacers Silverado Sierra – Wheel Adapters USA

WHEEL CONNECT Hub Centric Rings,108 to 78.1, Set of 4, Aluminium Alloy Hubrings, O.D:108mm I.D 78.1mm.

A https://a.co/d/dpB8X8u
2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT Trail Boss Steel Wheels | Rough Country

Toyo Tires Open Country A T III 35x11.50R17LT | 355920 | Custom Offsets
nice . thanks man. mine came with 20" wheels and 18" spare. Bought an off brand 20" spare and I've been driving around with it in the bed after running into the same issue with the bore size.
 
I caught a nail in the side wall. Replaced 2 tires, kept 1 tire and put it on the new spare wheel so I have all same tires and wheel sizes if I need the spare. Good amount of tread left on the new spare tire. Picked up the spare wheel from discount tire for about $175.

20 X9 6-139.70 10 BKGLXX

New spare wheel doesn't match the factory wheels, but it least its the same size. The 18" factory spare wheel was worthless and it came with a tire even more worthless.

Pretty subpar shitty job on Chevy's part in my opinion.
 

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