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Go Rhino Sport Bar 2.0 and Bak Revolver X4s Installed

The Raven

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This is yet another one of those bookkeeping type posts because there is not a whole lot of information out there on these products and their inter-compatibility. I searched endlessly to find a definitive answer on if I could use these products together and "the Sport Bar 2.0 is designed to work with MOST retractable and rolling tonneau covers" was the extent of anything resembling an answer that I could find. So I had to be the guinea pig...and the result is - it works, mostly.

This can also serve as yet another warning about this Sport Bar in case the many others out there on the net aren't enough to scare you off. The Go Rhino Sport Bar 2.0 is a BEAST to install. Holy crap...the idea is so simple, and after installing winch bumpers, suspensions, and entire interiors I thought I had seen it all and there was no way this could really be that difficult. I was way wrong. If you decide to tackle this thing, give yourself a lot of time - ideally make sure you can park your truck for a couple days while you obtain things you need to "customize" your install (cause you will need to).

On to the main point - Go Rhino advertises this as a Sport Bar that works with "most" retractable and rolling tonneau covers...but that really depends on what your definition of "works" is. It is designed to bolt to your bed rails (meaning you do have to drill holes) instead of clamping over them so there's no interference with clamps in the way. However, there is one big oversight in the design - they left no lateral leeway in the attachment of the bases to the uprights. So the bases sit where they sit and for me it was quite a chore to get their inside edges flush with the inside edges of my bed rails - I bolted one side down dead flush, and had to have a helper force the other side out (it was overhanging the inside by 5mm-ish) with his feet while I bolted it down. Then once I had it bolted down I realized that the top bar was not centered, level, or square with the rest of the truck...so I spent the next three hours loosening and tightening and shimming and wiggling to get it as level and as square as possible. I had to make my own shims in the end because there's just nowhere near enough leeway built into the design. Even with that done I now had the issue where the bar was using up real estate needed for the tonneau rails and seals.

You can see here that the sport bar overlaps the tonneau rails:
20230930_145033.jpg


The foam underneath the Sport Bar base in this picture is not part of the Sport Bar kit - that's one of the "extras" I needed to add. By default, the bar sits right on the bed rail cap with only a thin rubber gasket in between. I think the intent of the design is to actually clamp the tonneau rail OVER the "C-channel" base on the Sport Bar - the back end of the C-channel base has a cosmetic cover plate that you can remove...the only problem is that the sport bar base bottom plate is 3/16" thick...I have no idea how they expect that to work - even if you can get the rail clamped down that way, without warping it somehow, you'd have a huge gap that the rail seal can't cover and water would pour right in. I have to imagine that there's no way a retractable would work because it would bind up due to the rails not being flat. So I ended up putting the rails down first (of course I had to remove the Sport Bar I already installed and three of the included stainless bolts had already seized to their nuts so that was fun). After the rails were installed I then had to figure out how to re-attach the sport bar and obviously this was an issue because it now sat 1/4" higher due to the rails which only under-lapped the Bar bases by like 1/2". I ended up cutting heavy duty foam into 1/4" thick slices and wrapping a foam seal around the perimeter, then setting the sport bar on top and bolting through the foam. It works...but it's far from what I would consider reasonable to advertise as "working".

20230930_145027.jpg


So the end result is a perfectly fine working and great looking Sport Bar and Tonneau...but let this be a cautionary tale for those considering these products.

20230930_145013.jpg


Rolling up the cover, it JUST clears the uprights...I actually have to push down on the roll a little bit to get past, but seeing as i'm not going to be rolling up this cover often, I have no issue with that.

20230930_145217.jpg
 
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Great write up and good info. Thanks.

I do like how that has a cut out for factory third brake light to be seen instead of an integrated one. The reviews and videos of the factory sport bar make it seem like a huge pain to run wires, disconnect 3rd brake light and re-pin ECU for integrated brake light.
 
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Great write up and good info. Thanks.

I do like how that has a cut out for factory third brake light to be seen instead of an integrated one. The reviews and videos of the factory sport bar make it seem like a huge pain to run wires, disconnect 3rd brake light and re-pin ECU for integrated brake light.

Yes that aspect of it is great. This one is just a huge pain to assemble and install. I mean once that nightmare is over, it's great...I already ran a 3-circuit harness from the top bar all the way to the engine bay fusebox because I will be adding lights someday. I'm confident that now all that is done, i'll love it.

That and the price...the listed price for this Sport Bar looks like an April Fools joke. I have no idea how Go Rhino can keep that price up with a straight face. I got mine during the labor day sales at a discount site with an additional one-time promotion. With all that stacked (nearly 50% off) it was just normal-overpriced. If you are a skilled problem-solver and can score a 40% or more off deal like I did, then i'd consider it. But otherwise, I cannot recommend it.
 
When I bought my truck in 2020 I had the GM Accessories sportbar added to the deal. I did the install and wiring, which I didn't think was that big of a PITA, and I'm not a mechanic. At that time I installed a Rough Country trifold hard tonneau, but didn't like how I couldn't open the 2nd panel because the sport bar got in the way. In a moment of inanity I decided to go with a Retrax tonneau with the raised rails so I could add a cargo basket if needed. As I said, it was a moment of insanity. I had to cut away a portion of the rail to wrap around the base of the sport bar where it connects to the bed at its rear-most location. To close the gap I used JB Weld, made it look very clean, then painted it black. The rail is aluminum. I did look into a welder closing the gap, but he pointed out aluminum requires a lot of heat for welding and that would ruin the finish Retrax uses, which I'm not able to duplicate. Therefore, OP I know the pain and commend you for a job well done. It truly is a job of installing and removing over and over and over again. Btw, I have even taken this project a step further by adding molle panels to the interior sides of the bed. That further complicated install of the tonneau cover. Those molle panels have water and gas rotopax tanks installed, a 5 lbs fire extinguisher, and will soon have an air compressor with an air tank (current project). As for the top rails of the tonneau, I currently have cargo tie-downs mounted that I purchased from e-trailer. They actually get a lot of use.

Another poster relied regarding the wiring of the GM sport bar. If anything, I think the design has been beneficial. GM provided an opening in the forward bar for the wiring of the brake light. Not only have I used that same advantage to run wiring for a Baja Designs 40" light bar, but also to install radio antennas for CB, GMRS, and Ham Radio.

OP, I think I've made it very clear by now that I have a lot of experience with this type of project for our trucks. I think you did a great job, and provided a great write-up on the difficulties of accomplishing this feat. Well done. Feel free to sit down, relax, and have a cold beer for getting through this one.
 
When I bought my truck in 2020 I had the GM Accessories sportbar added to the deal. I did the install and wiring, which I didn't think was that big of a PITA, and I'm not a mechanic. At that time I installed a Rough Country trifold hard tonneau, but didn't like how I couldn't open the 2nd panel because the sport bar got in the way. In a moment of inanity I decided to go with a Retrax tonneau with the raised rails so I could add a cargo basket if needed. As I said, it was a moment of insanity. I had to cut away a portion of the rail to wrap around the base of the sport bar where it connects to the bed at its rear-most location. To close the gap I used JB Weld, made it look very clean, then painted it black. The rail is aluminum. I did look into a welder closing the gap, but he pointed out aluminum requires a lot of heat for welding and that would ruin the finish Retrax uses, which I'm not able to duplicate. Therefore, OP I know the pain and commend you for a job well done. It truly is a job of installing and removing over and over and over again. Btw, I have even taken this project a step further by adding molle panels to the interior sides of the bed. That further complicated install of the tonneau cover. Those molle panels have water and gas rotopax tanks installed, a 5 lbs fire extinguisher, and will soon have an air compressor with an air tank (current project). As for the top rails of the tonneau, I currently have cargo tie-downs mounted that I purchased from e-trailer. They actually get a lot of use.

Another poster relied regarding the wiring of the GM sport bar. If anything, I think the design has been beneficial. GM provided an opening in the forward bar for the wiring of the brake light. Not only have I used that same advantage to run wiring for a Baja Designs 40" light bar, but also to install radio antennas for CB, GMRS, and Ham Radio.

OP, I think I've made it very clear by now that I have a lot of experience with this type of project for our trucks. I think you did a great job, and provided a great write-up on the difficulties of accomplishing this feat. Well done. Feel free to sit down, relax, and have a cold beer for getting through this one.

LOL yeah the whole reason I went for the GoRhino bar instead of the GM bar (which I could have found on FB Marketplace for like $300) was because the GM bar doesn't play well with Tonneaus. It seems that the truth is that no bar does.

I do plan on doing the bedside Molle panels too, but there ain't no F-ing way i'm paying $200-300 PER PANEL. The prices on these things is just mega-insane.
 
LOL yeah the whole reason I went for the GoRhino bar instead of the GM bar (which I could have found on FB Marketplace for like $300) was because the GM bar doesn't play well with Tonneaus. It seems that the truth is that no bar does.

I do plan on doing the bedside Molle panels too, but there ain't no F-ing way i'm paying $200-300 PER PANEL. The prices on these things is just mega-insane.
Yes, and Putco recently came out with their version. They want even more money. I like the Valhalla Offroad version. Very durable and sturdy. No issues so far. Biggest issue is they're constantly out of stock. I had to wait awhile for them to be in stock. Best to get on their email notification list for when inventory is available for purchase again. Definitely worth it imo.
 
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Only registered to comment here. OP, great work!

Actually looking to make something similar. I realized there are two types of roll bars on the market: with a bracket (like what OP installed) and direct bolt-on. The ones with the bracket are supposed to allow covers slide inside the bracket, but like OP said it is hard to make it all flush and waterproof. Also bracket seems to make the whole thing structurally weaker.

What I am thinking is to have a similar cover, put a metal plate as a shim next to the cover rail on the outer side of the bed rail (make them match in height somehow or slightly higher) and then bolt the rack through that shim and a bed. The rack will overlap both shim and a cover lip.

Similar to the described setup but using a metal shim instead of a foam. Thoughts?
 
Only registered to comment here. OP, great work!

Actually looking to make something similar. I realized there are two types of roll bars on the market: with a bracket (like what OP installed) and direct bolt-on. The ones with the bracket are supposed to allow covers slide inside the bracket, but like OP said it is hard to make it all flush and waterproof. Also bracket seems to make the whole thing structurally weaker.

What I am thinking is to have a similar cover, put a metal plate as a shim next to the cover rail on the outer side of the bed rail (make them match in height somehow or slightly higher) and then bolt the rack through that shim and a bed. The rack will overlap both shim and a cover lip.

Similar to the described setup but using a metal shim instead of a foam. Thoughts?

Yup that would work...i'd still recommend foam or rubber at least in between your shim and the base of the bar...perhaps even on the bottom of the shim...but that would be pretty easy.
 
One possible caveat might be the width of the rack itself. The rolled cover should be able to clear it from side to side. Here I have troubles understanding how to measure all this before hitting a buy button.
 
One possible caveat might be the width of the rack itself. The rolled cover should be able to clear it from side to side. Here I have troubles understanding how to measure all this before hitting a buy button.

You can't, really. You have to be the guinea pig. Same thing I went through.
 
You can't, really. You have to be the guinea pig. Same thing I went through.
I started to look at adjustable racks or ones which are 3-pieces, so I could put a shim between pieces to widen the rack a little bit if needed.

However just realized another caveat - the rack would block the camera which is integrated into the top taillight. Oh well life is tough. :( I really like the camera view in the mirror. Need to rethink the whole project now.
 

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