Readylift: Doing the math

[NCRob]

2024 TB LT with 265/60/20.
I measured rake at 1.5” (fender well to top of tire)
So if I use either of these kits as advertised, I will never be true level?
SST: I will be 1/2 “higher in rear (2” front lift with 1” rear)
Level kit: I will be 1/4” higher in front (due to the 1.75 lift)

To be “dead level” do I use TOP spacers only from the 1.75 level kit?
EDIT: I didn’t consider “settling” so would one expect the front to lower a little over time and equal out?

Also, if I were to go with SST and 285s, I will be 2” higher in rear. Does that mess with camera view or parking sensors?

 

[Fiveoh]

For what it’s worth, I had the Readylift 1.75 level kit installed last week. We ended up just using the top spacer. Looks perfect, IMO. My measurements before the kit showed approximately 1.5 inches of rake.

 

[NCRob]

For what it’s worth, I had the Readylift 1.75 level kit installed last week. We ended up just using the top spacer. Looks perfect, IMO. My measurements before the kit showed approximately 1.5 inches of rake.

Thanks for the super quick and equally helpful response! One thing I didn’t think of is settling. Would you expect that front height to settle and decrease any over time?

 

[Fiveoh]

That’s a good question. I absolutely have no idea, but I really don’t see how it could change much.

 

[NCRob]

Are you guys gonna flake out if you're parked on a hill and it's not "Dead Level"?????
C'mon!!!!!!
You understand that your suspension does settle over time. You are chasing a ghost.

Oh, you have now shown me the way with your astute words of wisdom and invaluable guidance. . .

 

[Jimbo]

2024 TB LT with 265/60/20.
I measured rake at 1.5” (fender well to top of tire)
So if I use either of these kits as advertised, I will never be true level?
SST: I will be 1/2 “higher in rear (2” front lift with 1” rear)
Level kit: I will be 1/4” higher in front (due to the 1.75 lift)

To be “dead level” do I use TOP spacers only from the 1.75 level kit?
EDIT: I didn’t consider “settling” so would one expect the front to lower a little over time and equal out?

Also, if I were to go with SST and 285s, I will be 2” higher in rear. Does that mess with camera view or parking sensors?

I have a '24 and the 2" SST, which is a lift not a leveling kit if you use the rear block. In theory, that raises front and back 2", they take out the 1" factory rear block and install a 3". I forgot to measure before the lift was added but now I'm only 1" higher in the back, not 2. Also, my installer says there will be settling and that the front will be worse than the rear unless you haul, or tow heavy, often. I have not noticed a problem with headlights or camera views. I know none of that answers your question specifically, just my experience. Also, something to consider, I chose to leave the rake because I pull a camper in the summer and want to see what kind of squat I have. After that I may lower the rear.

 

[NCRob]

You clearly needed it.

What I “needed” was a courteous, genuine response to my sincere request for knowledge on a subject I’m clearly unfamiliar with. You could have provided that. Or you could have read it, rolled your eyes, and uttered to yourself “what a moron” then moved on to the next thread. What I didn’t need was your smartass, demeaning comment that does nothing but feed your ego and present yourself poorly.

 

[The Raven]

I also have the Readylift 1.75" level and am only using the top spacer. I kept the bottom spacer around because I added a winch bumper and will be installing a winch in a month or so - so if there's enough sag from that extra weight I may put it back in...but I felt like the full 1.75" level made the truck look low in the rear and I also figured that reducing the front lift to just 1" keep the CVs closer to stock angle.

 

[Transient]

Rough Country does have rear blocks in a variety of heights if you don't like the angle after install and settling. You don't need to do the rear at the same time as the front.

 

[Stormin08]

NUMEROUS CLAIMS>>>>the 1.75 is DEAD LEVEL>
The hood and body line makes THAT LEVEL look slightly nose high...2" is sagging A$$

 

[Transient]

I find it integrating that everybody used top of fender arch to determine level when it's possible the arches are manufactured to be different heights. Wouldn't it make more sense to put a level on the top of the truck bed rail or under the body or frame to determine if it's level?

 

[NCRob]

NUMEROUS CLAIMS>>>>the 1.75 is DEAD LEVEL>
The hood and body line makes THAT LEVEL look slightly nose high...2" is sagging A$$View attachment 8119View attachment 8118View attachment 8117

That looks Badass!

 

[NCRob]

I find it integrating that everybody used top of fender arch to determine level when it's possible the arches are manufactured to be different heights. Wouldn't it make more sense to put a level on the top of the truck bed rail or under the body or frame to determine if it's level?

That makes total sense! I guess for me, it’s not so much whether it IS level as much as if it LOOKS level whether it’s an optical illusion or not. So those differences in fender well gaps is what MY eyes personally are drawn to, right or wrong.

 

[2KWIK2C]

Mine never looks level. Always articulated somehow off road. Although when i wash it on flat ground it is perfectly level and even towing toys it's level. The air suspension is perfect for me!

 

[Transient]

That makes total sense! I guess for me, it’s not so much whether it IS level as much as if it LOOKS level whether it’s an optical illusion or not. So those differences in fender well gaps is what MY eyes personally are drawn to, right or wrong.

Human visual acuity is garbage, lol. You can have 2 lines the exact same length, but one is horizontal and the other is vertical. One will always appear longer. Even the ancient Greeks and Romans knew this. The columns of the Parthenon are not consistent in diameter in order to make them appear symmetrical.