Trail Boss Leveling- per the dealer

[AZ Trail Boss]

So the question is this - I’ve read many a post on this forum that 1.75 inch leveling is the way to go - AND that it is advisable to do new UCAs for anything over stock height - HOWEVER - the dealership I purchased this rig from say no UCAs are needed and I could do a 1.5 inch in the front to level this thing.

So who is right is the question?

I’m inclined to go with the folks on the forum here who actually USE their trucks but I’m looking for solid info - cuz not spending the $500 bucks on new UCAs and the level would be a nice surprise….

I appreciate all responses for sure - need to educate myself better before moving forward and y’all are fantastic.

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[GETGONE]

I've seen people complain of failed ball joints on stock Trail Boss height. Adding more lift causes more stress and angle on the joint and will fail faster. I'd rather spend money and know it was done right than cheap out and hope it holds together. Rough Country forged aluminum arms are $300 and a 1.5" lift is $70.

 

[Stormin08]

go look at your upper arm limit stop for droop...they do not have much droop as is...replacement arms, give some back and correct the BJ angle.

most dealerships do not like aftermarket parts period...

Listen carefully...this has some great info regarding these trucks

 

[The Raven]

I think you need to consider the consequences of the dealer being wrong. For example - the CV question (do you need longer CVs for X amount of lift?)...what happens if a CV breaks? You're stuck...inconvenient, but not really dangerous. But what happens when a UCA breaks? Really bad things. So for this one I would go with the cautious approach.

 

[916 Trail Boss]

Too much money invested in this truck to save a few hundred bucks. Do it the right way.

 

[PHXPHOTOG]

I think it is safe to say my truck sees some hard use. I don"t give much technical advise but I can explain my experience. My truck has 30,000 miles on it now, well over 3,000 of them are off road miles. I do not trust GM to be on my side when it comes to warranty repairs. That turned out to be true but thats another story. So, when my truck had less than 500 miles on it I went the dealer rout to protect warranty. It makes sense to me to follow their advice and keep possible breakage covered instead of spending money on parts I might not need and if those parts fail the expensive repair would be on me.
I did the dealer instaled 2" spacer kit. Installation and front end alignment was about 500.00 bucks. My dealer said the 2" inch spacer really comes out to about 1.5 or 1.75 in the real world. What ever it is it is perfectly level and I love it. Every inch added to the approach angle is a big deal to me. My OEM uppers have performed just fine.

I recently added 34 inch tires for 1 more inch of ground clearance. That is where my truck will stay. No more lift because I DO off road it. These are big wheel base and very stiff vehicles to off road. They have almost no articulation and it does not take much at all to lift a tire off the ground when on uneven terain. I believe I am now in the sweet spot for off road functionality. Higher is not better.

Steve

 

[AZ Trail Boss]

Right on gents - and ladies perhaps? Dunno - but I love the responses and thank you thank you thank you - I believe I have my answer.

Just wanna say - the people on this forum are awesome - I had a Dodge Charger a little while back and was modding that also - on that forum - there were SO MANY just juvenile folks on there that argued way too much - I appreciate the straight talk and great advice of you all very much.

 

[Stormin08]

( I recently added 34 inch tires for 1 more inch of ground clearance. That is where my truck will stay. No more lift because I DO off road it. These are big wheel base and very stiff vehicles to off road. They have almost no articulation and it does not take much at all to lift a tire off the ground when on uneven terain. I believe I am now in the sweet spot for off road functionality. Higher is not better. )

the rear is fine on these rigs, the rear leafs offer some decent flex...that said, i will be doing deaver mini paks

the front however, is the limiter...look closely at your upper arms droop stop (this is where gains can be maid, but will need an upper arm to do so), for slow wheeling like yourself, trim or remove those and go full droop (strap right before that point). the upper arm replacement is what is allowing MID travel suspension systems to work...the LONG travel then comes from the added width of upper and lower arms combined.

 

[AZ Trail Boss]

go look at your upper arm limit stop for droop...they do not have much droop as is...replacement arms, give some back and correct the BJ angle.

most

go look at your upper arm limit stop for droop...they do not have much droop as is...replacement arms, give some back and correct the BJ angle.

most dealerships do not like aftermarket parts period...

Listen carefully...this has some great info regarding these trucks

Thank you Stormin - love how he keeps saying - this is not a kit you need - but if you don’t have a budget - it’s great! Oh how I wish I didn’t have a budget…we’ll - it’s the wife that makes me abide - otherwise…BTW - your level setup and wheel and tire setup are my inspiration…you got a sweet ride sir.

 

[Sly]

So the question is this - I’ve read many a post on this forum that 1.75 inch leveling is the way to go - AND that it is advisable to do new UCAs for anything over stock height - HOWEVER - the dealership I purchased this rig from say no UCAs are needed and I could do a 1.5 inch in the front to level this thing.

So who is right is the question?

I’m inclined to go with the folks on the forum here who actually USE their trucks but I’m looking for solid info - cuz not spending the $500 bucks on new UCAs and the level would be a nice surprise….

I appreciate all responses for sure - need to educate myself better before moving forward and y’all are fantastic.

Thanks in advance everyone!

My concern is that a dealership is in the business of selling cars and trucks and repairs. So I have a hard time listening to dealerships. Especially one's I don't have a relationship with. I got the rough country 4 inch lift so I ended up getting new UCA. Even though Rough Country said they aren't needed. I didn't want to risk it and ended pulling the trigger on Ready lift arms because RC doesn't offer UCA for a 4 inch lift.

 

[BC_Hunter]

So the question is this - I’ve read many a post on this forum that 1.75 inch leveling is the way to go - AND that it is advisable to do new UCAs for anything over stock height - HOWEVER - the dealership I purchased this rig from say no UCAs are needed and I could do a 1.5 inch in the front to level this thing.

So who is right is the question?

I’m inclined to go with the folks on the forum here who actually USE their trucks but I’m looking for solid info - cuz not spending the $500 bucks on new UCAs and the level would be a nice surprise….

I appreciate all responses for sure - need to educate myself better before moving forward and y’all are fantastic.

Thanks in advance everyone!

Get new UCA. It's worth it!

 

[Wakinvol]

I’d rather have the UCA mod over the potential Kachow mod! I did Readylift on my Trailboss and then on my new AT4. I guess that they all can fail, but I’d rather not take a chance on it.

 

[AZ Trail Boss]

I’d rather have the UCA mod over the potential Kachow mod! I did Readylift on my Trailboss and then on my new AT4. I guess that they all can fail, but I’d rather not take a chance on it.

Kachow!

 

[GETGONE]

 

[AZ Trail Boss]

All right - so pulled the trigger on the Ready Lift 1.75 inch level kit - thanks be to all that weighed in - in particular Stormin08 - your ride is a gorgeous pickup and the article you provided was immensely helpful. The ride quality is just a bit harsher - which I like - a LOT less body roll. Truck feels planted and stout. Next up: wheels and tires….=D