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Wheel spacers

Paul Wisenbaker

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Looking for recommendations for wheel spacers: 18 Cleaver wheels stock wrangler tires. Want width without rub. Thank you
 

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I have 1.25" spacers. Not even close to rubbing. It's much more stable on the road, it doesn't have as much body roll. It made more of a difference than I expected.
 

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I have 1.25" spacers. Not even close to rubbing. It's much more stable on the road, it doesn't have as much body roll. It made more of a difference than I expected.
Did you have to trim the studs on the hubs?
What brand/where did you buy the spacers?
Thanks
 
Did you have to trim the studs on the hubs?
What brand/where did you buy the spacers?
Thanks
No. The mounting surface on the factory wheel has pockets between the lug bolt holes so there was plenty of room for the factory studs to poke through the spacers. They didn't stick very far past the spacers anyways. The brand is Adaptech.
 
No. The mounting surface on the factory wheel has pockets between the lug bolt holes so there was plenty of room for the factory studs to poke through the spacers. They didn't stick very far past the spacers anyways. The brand is Adaptech.
Thanks for the info👍
 
I found a place here in SoCal called wheeladapter.com. They are machined here in CA and they use grade 10 studs instead of the usual grade 8. They are expensive at about $400 total for 4 but I wouldn't have to worry about them breaking off.
I ordered four 1.5 inch today. $365 total. Probably get them tomorrow or Saturday.
 
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I ordered the spacers yesterday and received them today. They seem very heavy and well made. I plan on installing them on Monday👍
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Installed the 1.5” spacers today. I really like the wider stance.
I have a ReadyLift 2” level kit and 295/70-18 Toyos on stock wheels and did not rub at all. After the spacers, the fronts just barely rubbed the inner mud flap. I removed the mud flap brackets and trimmed the mudflaps and no clearance issues at all now. The photo with the floor jack is no spacer.
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Installed the 1.5” spacers today. I really like the wider stance.
I have a ReadyLift 2” level kit and 295/70-18 Toyos on stock wheels and did not rub at all. After the spacers, the fronts just barely rubbed the inner mud flap. I removed the mud flap brackets and trimmed the mudflaps and no clearance issues at all now. The photo with the floor jack is no spacer.
View attachment 666View attachment 667

I saw some horror stories on GM threads about the trail boss and leveling kits. Multiple posts of ball joint blowouts while driving. Some going 45mph. Be careful. I was going to level as well but its not worth it IMO especially considering there will be no coverage under warranty.

When I decide to lift mine its gonna be a complete 4" suspension lift that replaces trail boss components.
 
I saw some horror stories on GM threads about the trail boss and leveling kits. Multiple posts of ball joint blowouts while driving. Some going 45mph. Be careful. I was going to level as well but its not worth it IMO especially considering there will be no coverage under warranty.

When I decide to lift mine its gonna be a complete 4" suspension lift that replaces trail boss components.
Those are probably with $75 “spacer” lifts.
I haven’t found any problems with kits using parts with corrected geometry to maintain proper ball joint angles like ReadyLift.
 
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Received a full Set of 1.5" Spacers (2 pair) from American Trucks today, made by Supreme Suspension. Planning to install tomorrow. Studs say 10.9 type. Only $280 for a set of four. The Link:


Instructions say there are likely indentions (sic) in the wheel to accommodate the stud ends, and use factory torque values.
 
Received a full Set of 1.5" Spacers (2 pair) from American Trucks today, made by Supreme Suspension. Planning to install tomorrow. Studs say 10.9 type. Only $280 for a set of four. The Link:


Instructions say there are likely indentions (sic) in the wheel to accommodate the stud ends, and use factory torque values.
Good price👍
There are indents in the stock Trail Boss 18in wheels. I torqued to 140ftlbs which is correct from what I’ve read. You’ll need a long pry bar or similar to brace against the ground and put between the front wheel spacer studs to keep the hub from turning when you tighten the lugs.
 
Do you need to protect the Threads from the pry bar while tightening? And, Thanks! for the tip.
(I have lots of space to work either inside or just outside my airplane hangar, lots and lots of tools, large floor jack ... )

Is it not recommended to put the Transfer case in 4WD (engine off of course) to keep the hubs from turning?
 
Do you need to protect the Threads from the pry bar while tightening? And, Thanks! for the tip.
(I have lots of space to work either inside or just outside my airplane hangar, lots and lots of tools, large floor jack ... )

Is it not recommended to put the Transfer case in 4WD (engine off of course) to keep the hubs from turning?
I wrapped a rag around the pry bar.
Probably wouldn’t hurt it if you put it in 4wd but I didn’t think of doing that.
 

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