Magnetic oil drain plug

Sauerkraut · 2026-05-14T08:51:42-0600

Hello guys, I recently did an oil change on my 'big guy' and wanted to use this replacement bolt (see picture) with a magnetic head instead of the regular oil drain plug. (I bought it last year at O'Reilly's). The thickness and the thread fit, but it seems to be too long—I couldn't tighten it properly, it seems to hit something inside the oil pan on the last turn, probably the oil pickup screen. I then screwed in the old bolt again before I damaged anything. Question to you: Has anyone installed an oil drain plug with a magnet on their 5.3 engine and can tell me where they bought it (for next time)? Thanks! For your info: I have already installed the oil catch can and Pulsar LT and have also switched to 5W-30 oil. Thanks again to Big Blackie for the valuable tips!

BigBlackie_'25TB · 2026-05-14T10:00:56-0600

Take an overall measurement comparison between both including the actual thread engagement to determine whether your Dorman thread is longer. If the threaded portion is longer than the OEM, then of course, you can just simply go back to O'Reilly's and ask for one with less thread engagement than the one you currently have now. I am fairly sure the OEM spec for the threaded portion is ~18mm in length. If your threaded portion of the Dorman plug is longer, that is your issue. I don't use a magnetic plug...I used to but I got lazy! Haha! Now, I have a quick release valve drain plug with a 12" hose that I purchased from Votex.

The oil catch can is a great asset! I installed one recently as well and it definitely captures a lot of crud I didn't want back in my engine. I switched from 0w20 to 5w30 right after purchasing my truck. I have done oil analysis testing for every oil change. I recently switched to 0w40 because of some results from tests I have read in articles which gave me insight for a more educated decision [in my opinion] to at least try the move and run my rig using 0w40 and continue with oil analysis testing. Being the fact my truck still has the crappy DFM lifters and other internal parts specifically for this C.A.F.E. adjusted setup in my engine, I wanted to run a higher weight at operating temps to keep the oil pressure higher and a lower cold start oil weight so the oil will lube the DFM parts sooner than the bit heavier "winter" weight classification of "5" referencing 5w30. I still had great results from the oil analyses using 5w30. I guess I am simply wanting to experiment here and decide what weight oil to continue to use...5w30 or 0w40.