1.75" Ready Lift Leveling Kit with 295/65r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

[TB7707]

So I know there is a lot of information out there on leveling and tire sizes and honestly I am driving myself crazy on this issue and feel like an idiot. I have lifted trucks and jeeps in the past but never a trail boss. I went with the Ready Lift 1.75" and their recommendation of max tire size. I have the kit and the 295/65r20 Nittos in my garage and a new 24 LT Trail Boss arriving in 4 weeks and planning on using stock 20" rims. In reading forums here and other sites and articles, I am getting mixed information that some have had no problems with the fit and others have. I did not want to have to trim liners, remove metal brackets or delete splash guard/mud flaps etc on this new truck Now I am just wondering if I am the biggest moron for trying to have the tires and leveling kit ready for install when the truck arrives or did I make a huge mistake. Any feedback will be helpful. Thanks

 

[TexasSAR]

So I know there is a lot of information out there on leveling and tire sizes and honestly I am driving myself crazy on this issue and feel like an idiot. I have lifted trucks and jeeps in the past but never a trail boss. I went with the Ready Lift 1.75" and their recommendation of max tire size. I have the kit and the 295/65r20 Nittos in my garage and a new 24 LT Trail Boss arriving in 4 weeks and planning on using stock 20" rims. In reading forums here and other sites and articles, I am getting mixed information that some have had no problems with the fit and others have. I did not want to have to trim liners, remove metal brackets or delete splash guard/mud flaps etc on this new truck Now I am just wondering if I am the biggest moron for trying to have the tires and leveling kit ready for install when the truck arrives or did I make a huge mistake. Any feedback will be helpful. Thanks

2021 TB with that configuration. I tried the same exact tires you have and they rubbed at full lock. Tried to solve with mud flap and inner fender liner delete but still rubbed in reverse. Went to 285/65/20 which helped.

Now have 2.5 Kings and solved

 

[RED22TB]

Their max tire recommendation is for after market rims 20 x 9 with a 0 offset. You will get rubbing with the set up you plan on using.

 

[916 Trail Boss]

I have the Nitto Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 with the Ready Lift 1.75". They fit fine with no mods needed.

 

[buckshot85]

I have the Nitto Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 with the Ready Lift 1.75". They fit fine with no mods needed.
View attachment 8844

Not on factory wheels, though.

 

[Bowtie Boy]

So I know there is a lot of information out there on leveling and tire sizes and honestly I am driving myself crazy on this issue and feel like an idiot. I have lifted trucks and jeeps in the past but never a trail boss. I went with the Ready Lift 1.75" and their recommendation of max tire size. I have the kit and the 295/65r20 Nittos in my garage and a new 24 LT Trail Boss arriving in 4 weeks and planning on using stock 20" rims. In reading forums here and other sites and articles, I am getting mixed information that some have had no problems with the fit and others have. I did not want to have to trim liners, remove metal brackets or delete splash guard/mud flaps etc on this new truck Now I am just wondering if I am the biggest moron for trying to have the tires and leveling kit ready for install when the truck arrives or did I make a huge mistake. Any feedback will be helpful. Thanks

I just installed a Ready-lift 1.75 leveling kit for the factory-lifted Trail Boss. I have BFG 35x 12.5 on 20" wheels. The key to your tire fitment will rest on the wheel offset. Those tires on the factory 20" wheels will actually touch the upper control arm. If the offset is too much the other way you will have excessive protrusion from the wheel well and rubbing or lots of trimming. I only had a small rub at full lock in reverse and trimmed approximately 1/4 inch from the factory mud guards......Now no rub at all.

 

[Stormin08]

For piece of mind...the bracket everyone says to remove is nothing but a place holder. Do your self the favor, remove that...then you can push the liners back and use a factory tree clip to hold it in a new location. I run a 35x11.50 on a 9 wide zero offset and have damn near enough room for a 37. I do have RL upper arms...but you WILL WANT a new arm if leveling a TB.

The stock suspension takes most of the droop travel needed for a good ride....the newer arm will correct angles and give some of the droop back after the level.

 

[Bowtie Boy]

For piece of mind...the bracket everyone says to remove is nothing but a place holder. Do your self the favor, remove that...then you can push the liners back and use a factory tree clip to hold it in a new location. I run a 35x11.50 on a 9 wide zero offset and have damn near enough room for a 37. I do have RL upper arms...but you WILL WANT a new arm if leveling a TB.

The stock suspension takes most of the droop travel needed for a good ride....the newer arm will correct angles and give some of the droop back after the level.

Everyone, Stormin08 is absolutely correct ! I I spent 2 months agonizing over my options for wheels & tire upgrades. That one little pesky bracket is complete over-kill. It serves no legitimate purpose other than securing the inner liner and mud guard. It can easily be removed. I removed mine cut an inch and a half off and put it back so I could reattach my inner liner and factory (modified/trimmed) mud guards. Like he stated the factory UCA will need to be replaced no matter what you may want to do. Once off the truck when you look at the factory UCAs you see why. I love my truck, but I think I could break them with my hand. I replaced with RL 1.75 level kit I put a set of Vossen 20x9.5 -15mm offset on a set of BFG KO2 35x12.5. I could easily slide 37’s on if I wanted to ( I do not ) long story short….cut, grind, trim, bend or remove the bracket and enjoy your truck.

 

[desertrat]

I’m running the exact same leveling kit and have 35x11.50x20’s on stock wheels. Just needed to add 1/4” spacers to clear the UCA’s. No rubbing, or trimming, at all.

 

[Bowtie Boy]

I’m running the exact same leveling kit and have 35x11.50x20’s on stock wheels. Just needed to add 1/4” spacers to clear the UCA’s. No rubbing, or trimming, at all.

It's an awesome-looking truck. Yeah, with the 11.5s instead of the 12.5s and the 1/4 spacer that probably has the same fit, look, and stance. That was my first idea, but my tire guy is a "Tire Nazi" and about blew a gasket when I mentioned "spacers". He basically said he wouldn't work on the wheels and tires with spacers. So, since I get these ridiculously priced tires ($ 535 ea) at a significantly discounted price I didn't want to jeopardize my "Bro-mance" with him. But just let me add, that is "his" opinion, not mine. I personally don't see anything wrong with using a high-quality spacer of a normal or nominal size. as long as you aren't doing any crazy off-roading or super heavy towing, to which I will be doing neither.

 

[desertrat]

It's an awesome-looking truck. Yeah, with the 11.5s instead of the 12.5s and the 1/4 spacer that probably has the same fit, look, and stance. That was my first idea, but my tire guy is a "Tire Nazi" and about blew a gasket when I mentioned "spacers". He basically said he wouldn't work on the wheels and tires with spacers. So, since I get these ridiculously priced tires ($ 535 ea) at a significantly discounted price I didn't want to jeopardize my "Bro-mance" with him. But just let me add, that is "his" opinion, not mine. I personally don't see anything wrong with using a high-quality spacer of a normal or nominal size. as long as you aren't doing any crazy off-roading or super heavy towing, to which I will be doing neither.

Thanks. Ya, a lot of people freak out over spacers, but this is a 1/4" we're talking about. Been running with these for a little over 2 years now, on and off road, on the freeway with the family, and have never had any cause for concern. Lots of subjective opinions out there, but nothing beats getting first hand experienced feedback from people that have been there done that. That's why I joined this forum. Good luck with your setup!

 

[Bowtie Boy]

You have the right attitude!! I totally agree. Keep doing what you're doing. I don't think you'll have any issues whatsoever. I still can't bring myself to take $75k off the pavement and onto dirt, just yet......but I'm sure it will get there.

 

[Stormin08]

if anyone wants the info...these ARE hands down the best spacers / adapters money can buy....if i am correct, this is the original Fred Goeske spacers.

Wheel Spacers

Wheel Spacers | <<Back to HomeBrowse by Make & ModelCustom Bolt-onCustom Slip-onWhat are wheel spacers?What are wheel adapters?Custom Spacer

www.uswheeladapters.com

i am placing an order for some 6mm hub centric spacers. i could have got a -12 offset, but felt that was a bit to much for what i wanted...the 6mm will place my 9 wide zero offset on the perfect location.

 

[Ryanj5049]

For piece of mind...the bracket everyone says to remove is nothing but a place holder. Do your self the favor, remove that...then you can push the liners back and use a factory tree clip to hold it in a new location. I run a 35x11.50 on a 9 wide zero offset and have damn near enough room for a 37. I do have RL upper arms...but you WILL WANT a new arm if leveling a TB.

The stock suspension takes most of the droop travel needed for a good ride....the newer arm will correct angles and give some of the droop back after the level.

so to clarify, RL 1.75 level with the new UCA's they provide, push back wheel line and i can run stock tire size with a 0mm offset?

 

[Stormin08]

the RL arms, correct the upper BJ angle, and the reach of the arm routes in a way that gives back some of the lost droop. the Factory 2" lift takes some of the droop away, thus when looking at levels and lift...the 2" set ups come with new upper arms.

the offset of your wheel and clearing will have some differences related to wheel width as well. the RL upper arm increases clearance at teh BJ area by cup design vs. a rolled stiffening edge that has a press in joint

the pic below is the RL upper arm showing a 11.5 wide tire on a 9" wheel zero offset.

This pic is the 35x11.50 on a 20x9 ZERO offset