Best 4 inch lift where I can use stock rims with spacers.

[Stormin08]

the issue with swapping the SHOCK portion of the set up, is valving...do some homework here, the shocks are going to be valved to the COIL rate.

you are going to go down a path of frustration trying to stay overly simple...keeping the spacer lift doesnt usually mix well with going performance shock. you have a decent control arm which helps clear the coils at droop....cycle the suspension, see if you are hitting droop stops yet (tab on side of coil bucket under control arm), while looking at the arms placement near the COIL itself. some spacers lower the assembly enough, that the arm starts to contact the coil itself and limits droop.

a shock like the eibach uses a 3" dia. coil, unlike mine that use a 3.5" coil. you gain way more than a static lift height with a good shock, and especially if adding a shock with a reservoir. moving the piston into the resi, gives a considerable amount of travel to the shock.

 

[Jneufeld]

Oh i see, that makes some sense. But then how do I know whats essentially plug and play with what I have for the rest of my setup?

Im just worried if I change too much, im forced to change everything.

Basically, If I want nicer shocks/struts, I have to go big enough to eliminate the SST spacer kit by replacing springs too. But then, I may run into issues with my stocks wheels. I see what you mean about frustration...

No easy button solution huh?

 

[Jneufeld]

So lets say I eventually went with your suggestion, which others seem to love btw, of replacing the strut and springs with the Bilstein 6112 coil overs and 5160s in the rear.

What else do I need to change or remove from my current setup.

Ideally, Id like to at min keep what lift I have, or gain a half inch to an inch all the way around. Removing and replacing as few parts as possible.

 

[Stormin08]

the 6100 combo would replace all that is needed....

YOUR lift has 2 parts that create the lift....the top hat spacer and the coil preload spacer. BOTH would come out upon initial removal of your assembly, even just swapping the shock portion. in most cases, you would even loos the coil preload spacer as it may not work with the new shock body.

you do not want more than 4" MAX lift in front (with out looking at larger lifts). you max out all angles and suck up all droop travel in the geometry.

best bet, in my opinion....you mention weekend wheeling at a more aggressive level would be a 6100. although it is a FIRMER feeling shock as is most bilsteins, it is designed around what your doing.

the 4" you posted is simply a LIFT, no suspension change from what you have....it just spaces everything down.


what is your intended lift height desire ?
tire size ?
what do you want the ruck to do ? ( look lifted, or perform in terms of ride quality and ability)

 

[Stormin08]

there is a lot of FORCED changes with lift over certain heights do to the parts being used. the knuckles being a key part that forces wheel changes. most suspension pieces are right near or within the barrel of the wheel. the aftermarket knuckles are longer, thicker and some cases wider...this makes changing wheels vital....or you can do the NOT RECOMMENDED spacers to accommodate

 

[Jneufeld]

Well,

what is your intended lift height desire?

-Basically what it has now, but open to higher if I dont have to change a bunch of stuff.

tire size?

-I have brand new 285/70r18 duratracs on my stock rims with spacers. Ideally Id like to keep all of this the same.

what do you want the truck to do ? ( look lifted, or perform in terms of ride quality and ability)

- be able to accomodate at least the lift height I have now, and the tire size I have now, with zero rub, ride a little nicer, and maybe if I can possibly achieve a bonus, it would be to increase my travel clearances on the tire because currently I have very little room.

So, ideally Id like to spend as little as possible, with as little modifications as possible, while attempting to gain mainly two things: no rubbing and better ride via new shocks/struts.

Bone basic cheapest way: unbolt collision bracket (crash pad) on fender frame. Run a zap strap. Forget about everything and keep going.

Ideal option? Upgrade shocks and struts in a way that most efficiently and cheaply gains the outcomes Im looking for.

Expensive balls to the walls option: gut the entire sst lift and start over with a "big lift" in the 4" to 6" option.

So ideally, Im hoping maybe that the Bilstein 6112 coil over option, along with the bilstein rear shock option (either 5100s or 5160s) will achieve my intended outcomes. But, will I still retain the ability to use my same UCAs, my same stock rims (with the spacers), and how much of the old SST lift is getting taken out?

Am I just losing the front spacers and all will be well? Are the rear blocks affected? Will the rims still work?

I think if all Im losing are the SST front spacers, and that my stock rims and current UCAs work, and I have effectively removed the rubbing, than Im going to start saving up for that Bilstein coil over option for sure. Because it seems its the most efficient way to resolve at least some of my issues, if not all of them really. Because I am going to need new shocks soon anyways...

Can you confirm this is the case for me?

For now, Ill just unbolt that crash pad though.

 

[Stormin08]

Tire rubbing...Where does it rub ?
typically, (especially with your spacers)...the mudflap is an issue, as well as the lower air dams (sometimes bumpers). by removing the bracket that locates the LINER in the fender, this can be unbolted and then the liner can be pushed back ( easily 1" plus). The front bumper has a couple options...trim the edges to accommodate, or some shops SHIM it forward slightly.

this is obviously where wheel offset comes into play. i cannot imagine that you rub the control arm with a 2" spacer...is a 1.5" spacer an option ??? maybe it should be, if it helps your cause the most.


as for the lift, since maintaining current height is the first choice...the only thing you will loose is the front spacers if you swap coil assemblies.
open up your search to a set up that offers 3.5"ish lift height ( this will accommodate the loss of the 2" factory strut). when selecting coil set up, most are offered for a standard Silverado. a select few are advertised for TB / AT4 applications.

some, like the bilstein run a stock style top hat, you could reuse a small top spacer, or even as i do...i run a 1/4" lower spacer (i didnt want to mess with adjusting spring preload at first).

the rear simply needs a longer shock...most offer a range of lengths, but most are seen as 0-2" for leveled applications....a quick call can fix that of you dont see a 2-4" version. the rear block will not be affected, unless you want it to be.


if looking at BIGGER lifts, this is where wheel issues really arise....the knuckles can cause big issues. Most will want a 20" wheel to clear the knuckle area....

the 6100 series keeps coming to mind as the best option, but he 5100 would do the same....both are great options, i just prefer the larger 6100 (2.6" body)....bigger IS always better, may not be needed all the time....but the value is there.

 

[Jneufeld]

Awesome reply thanks.

 

[Jneufeld]

Tire rubbing...Where does it rub ?
typically, (especially with your spacers)...the mudflap is an issue, as well as the lower air dams (sometimes bumpers). by removing the bracket that locates the LINER in the fender, this can be unbolted and then the liner can be pushed back ( easily 1" plus). The front bumper has a couple options...trim the edges to accommodate, or some shops SHIM it forward slightly.

this is obviously where wheel offset comes into play. i cannot imagine that you rub the control arm with a 2" spacer...is a 1.5" spacer an option ??? maybe it should be, if it helps your cause the most.


as for the lift, since maintaining current height is the first choice...the only thing you will loose is the front spacers if you swap coil assemblies.
open up your search to a set up that offers 3.5"ish lift height ( this will accommodate the loss of the 2" factory strut). when selecting coil set up, most are offered for a standard Silverado. a select few are advertised for TB / AT4 applications.

some, like the bilstein run a stock style top hat, you could reuse a small top spacer, or even as i do...i run a 1/4" lower spacer (i didnt want to mess with adjusting spring preload at first).

the rear simply needs a longer shock...most offer a range of lengths, but most are seen as 0-2" for leveled applications....a quick call can fix that of you dont see a 2-4" version. the rear block will not be affected, unless you want it to be.


if looking at BIGGER lifts, this is where wheel issues really arise....the knuckles can cause big issues. Most will want a 20" wheel to clear the knuckle area....

the 6100 series keeps coming to mind as the best option, but he 5100 would do the same....both are great options, i just prefer the larger 6100 (2.6" body)....bigger IS always better, may not be needed all the time....but the value is there.

Hey stormin08,

Do you happen to have or know the part numbers for the correct 6100/5160 setup for my truck and situation?

 

[Stormin08]

looks like Bilstein only offers 1 option for the silverado

catalogue

cart.bilsteinus.com

call these guys to confirm... they offer a 2.5" total front height option

Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled + Rear 5160 Reservoir Shocks Set for 2019-2024 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD RWD

Fits 2019-2024 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD RWD Bilstein 6112 Strut & Spring Assembled + Rear B8 5160 Reservoir Shock 47-293557 25-316957. New parts, expert support, free shipping.

www.shocksurplus.com

 

[Jneufeld]

These part numbers look right/correct? Right sizes and part numbers?

Remember my truck is Trail boss but with the ready lift sst kit. (2+2).

Cdn dollars...

Thanks guys.

Gonna pull the trigger I think...

 

[Stormin08]

the front appears to be the same as the link, now...it says UPTO 2.5"...you can most likely use these (confirm the top hat style is same as stock), set on 2" and then run the upper spacer from the RL kit. that should net you the same or very close to the same height you have now.

not sure how much lift your upper spacer adds, but you wont use the preload spacer.

 

[Jneufeld]

I talked to bilstein guys in the usa. Theyre very hesitant in me using these with the ready lift sst kit.

The last guy said these would work. Ut i got no verification of the spacers and top hat would work too.

47-309524
24-309516

 

[Jneufeld]

I dunno why they just cant give me a straight answer. Seems to be like pulling teeth with them.

 

[Stormin08]

no company is going to say YES< Stack it, IT WILL WORK... , only a shop who does it daily MAY concur.

the thing to understand is the geometry of the arms, and placement of the COIL Diameter, the lowering of the coil with a top spacer, CAN cause contact between the upper arm and the coil at full droop. companies like Bilstein find this out for you, and design a longer shock body to give the height while maintaining the same location.

the larger cradle lifts dont have these issues, as the relocate the lower and make up the difference with a longer knuckle. two very different worlds, as the lifts usually only increase HEIGHT, not travel.
and REQUIRE cutting your frame....

until recently with FOX buying some up, and adding their coilovers, there was no gain other than height.

i went with the 2.5 elite over the race series due to gaining .5" more travel, the race series top hat design limits compression by .5" compaired to the elites design