What's new

Blacking out emblems gone wrong....

So I tried a new product last night Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap to black out the emblems on my 21 CTB and to put it bluntly it was a terrible experience. I have used Plasti Dip numerous time on other vehicles and it worked great; good coverage, peelability, removing any overspray was very easy and didn't affect any material on the vehicle. This Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap product was the exact opposite... I only used it because it was on the shelf at the store and it was supposed to be gloss black and not matte black like Plasti Dip (next time I will just order Hyper Dip and call it a day or suck it up and just buy the OEM black emblems).

Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap sprayed just fine but was never a true black color that was similar to the black paint of my TB. As I sprayed the product and waited the advised time between coats I noticed that it wasn't adhering to the red and the silver parts of the Z71 emblems on each front fender. I thought maybe it just needed more coats as many a little bit of the car wash soup wasn't fully dried from prepping the vehicle for this project but come to find out after the finish just wasn't what I expected and trying to remove the product it peeled the red detail out of the Z71 emblem.... I used a micro fiber towel to remove following the directions. It took me over 3 hours and a 30 minute stint in the local do it yourself spray car wash using the power washer and soup at 11pm last night to get the remaining product off of the emblems. That would have been great if it ended there but it then took me another hour vigorously scrubbing with a detail spray and micro fiber towel to remove the small amount of over spray that felt literally like cement on the paint.... Hopefully the paint swirls and any remaining residue comes out over time with washing but I'm thinking I will need to get the vehicle ceramic coated or something to get the paint corrected....

Hopefully someone else had a better experience with this product but I certainly will not be using this again. It should not take off material from the vehicle emblems.
Go on eBay and order emblems, Amazon even has them. Put them on and looks great!
 

Attachments

  • 7614DA01-51A5-4135-9462-28BD5F04DF36.jpeg
    7614DA01-51A5-4135-9462-28BD5F04DF36.jpeg
    264.4 KB · Views: 40
I have the 3M buffer wheel and used it on my 18 to remove all the Silverado lettering AND the Silverado & LT lettering on my 21's tailgate. It's like $50 but I never had a problem with it. It's akin to a wax wheel that slowly wears down with use. It took the goo right off no problem and cleaned up nicely. Most auto parts stores have this wheel. Hope that helps.

I'm about to remove my stock Z71 side badges, the grill badge and the original Trail Boss decals as well and replace with all black versions. I hope the large badges I bought from Amazon work out. At least the adhesive covering on the back SAYS 3M. I'll have to study up on how to safely remove the Trail Boss decals. Here goes nothing.
I removed my TB decals easily with a heat gun. Then followed with a good wash.
 
Since you brought it up I will add my own blackout frustration. I replaced my tailgate lettering and Z71 emblems. First, the new black badges I ordered from Amazon claimed to be OEM and 3M adhesive. They were neither. So, if I was going to do it again I would start by making sure I had true OEM badges. Second, I tried the two removal methods most often recommended on YouTube, heat gun and fishing line. Those videos are BS. Getting the factory badges off is the easy part. The mess your left with after that is a total PIA. Bottom line is it becomes a painstaking job for your fingernails. Goo Gone does almost nothing to help with the adhesive you must remove. In fact, until you are down to the final super fine last layer of glaze Goo Gone tends to just smeer the adhesive around contaminating clean areas. It is not an easy process. Then, when I finally applied the new badges (cheap China crap) I discovered the tape on one of the Z71 plates was not properly affixed to the badge. It left a small gap between the top of the badge and the fender. That really pissed me off.

Apparently 3M makes a buffer wheel for a hand drill that "erases" the old adhesive. I have not tried that method. I didn't like the idea of hitting new paint with something like that. Maybe that was my bad? Also, don't listen to anyone that says you can lightly stick the new badge and then adjust it slightly for perfect placement. It is a one shot deal. Get it right the first time.

Thats my story and I'm STICKING to it.

Kind Regards,

Steve
Yep,, reason I’m gonna try the $5 Plastidip mod to keep the originals then see how it holds up and looks. Goin cheaper route.
 
Literally did this last night...spent 45 minutes with heat gun, fishing line, goo gone on drivers side Z71. Went to the advance auto, picked up the 3m wheel. Passenger side removed with no adhesive remover, and clean in 8 minutes. Back tailgate silverado and LT off in less than 10. No markings on paint. One of the best tools I have bought for stuff like that ever.
 
Literally did this last night...spent 45 minutes with heat gun, fishing line, goo gone on drivers side Z71. Went to the advance auto, picked up the 3m wheel. Passenger side removed with no adhesive remover, and clean in 8 minutes. Back tailgate silverado and LT off in less than 10. No markings on paint. One of the best tools I have bought for stuff like that ever.
Exactly. Worth it.
 

Most Reactions

Latest Discussions...

Back
Top