Leaking CV joint?

[Grey]

Wondering how you made out with this. Did you find a video and did you replace the axle yourself?

Haven't even started it yet. I went to another dealer just to make sure that it was going to be on me and I got the same story at the second place. I get it, and it's not really worth a fight. I bought a new GM shaft this week and once its delivered I'll start. If I can figure out how to get it apart, I'll see if I can remember to take a video while I am doing it. I am sure that I won't be the last to do this on this truck.

 

[Grey]

2 things here:

1) You're going to have a very difficult time defending a warranty claim with the ReadyLift SST kit installed, exorcism if you did it yourself. ReadyLift was very adamant about being super careful with the CV axle. They made it sound like if you looked at it wrong it would tear. Since that's in writing, and floating around on the internet, it won't be hard for them to use that against you to deny warranty service. If the dealership had done the install they'd be on the hook for the torn boot.

2) I haven't looked at how/where the CV is installed, but based on another person's comment it sounds like you may need to rent a slide hammer tool specific to removing CV axles from a place like Auto Zone or Advance.

1) agreed. I knew that was the case from the start, but it was worth the effort to ask.

2) I found an excerpt from the service manual posted on another forum. Looks like it's being pried out. That backs up the claim I saw in the walkthrough I posted earlier about using a big flathead to remove it. That seems wrong, but I've seen it claimed a few times now. see below...


Warning: To prevent personal injury and/or component damage, do not allow the weight of the vehicle to load the front wheels, or attempt to operate the vehicle, when the wheel drive shaft(s) or wheel drive shaft nut(s) are removed. To do so may cause the inner bearing race to separate, resulting in damage to brake and suspension components and loss of vehicle control.
Caution: DO NOT use air tools to remove the wheel drive shaft nut. Damage to the wheel drive shaft threads could occur. Use hand tools only.
Note: It is not necessary to completely disassemble the steering knuckle. Only perform the steps necessary to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
Caution: Wheel drive shaft boots, seals and clamps should be protected from sharp objects any time service is performed on or near the wheel drive shaft(s). Damage to the boot(s), the seal(s) or the clamp(s) may cause lubricant to leak from the joint and lead to increased noise and possible failure of the wheel drive shaft.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
2. Underbody Skid Shield (2) » Remove — Underbody Skid Shield Replacement
3. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation
4. Have an assistant apply the brakes.
5. Front Wheel Drive Shaft Nut (1) » Remove
6. Front Wheel Brake Rotor » Remove — Front Brake Rotor Replacement
7. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle as an assembly.
8. Using a suitable, flat bladed tool (1), release the front wheel drive half shaft (2) from the front differential carrier.
9. Front Wheel Drive Half Shaft - Left Side (1) » Remove

 

[Transient]

1) agreed. I knew that was the case from the start, but it was worth the effort to ask.

2) I found an excerpt from the service manual posted on another forum. Looks like it's being pried out. That backs up the claim I saw in the walkthrough I posted earlier about using a big flathead to remove it. That seems wrong, but I've seen it claimed a few times now. see below...


Warning: To prevent personal injury and/or component damage, do not allow the weight of the vehicle to load the front wheels, or attempt to operate the vehicle, when the wheel drive shaft(s) or wheel drive shaft nut(s) are removed. To do so may cause the inner bearing race to separate, resulting in damage to brake and suspension components and loss of vehicle control.
Caution: DO NOT use air tools to remove the wheel drive shaft nut. Damage to the wheel drive shaft threads could occur. Use hand tools only.
Note: It is not necessary to completely disassemble the steering knuckle. Only perform the steps necessary to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
Caution: Wheel drive shaft boots, seals and clamps should be protected from sharp objects any time service is performed on or near the wheel drive shaft(s). Damage to the boot(s), the seal(s) or the clamp(s) may cause lubricant to leak from the joint and lead to increased noise and possible failure of the wheel drive shaft.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
2. Underbody Skid Shield (2) » Remove — Underbody Skid Shield Replacement
3. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation
4. Have an assistant apply the brakes.
5. Front Wheel Drive Shaft Nut (1) » Remove
6. Front Wheel Brake Rotor » Remove — Front Brake Rotor Replacement
7. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle as an assembly.
8. Using a suitable, flat bladed tool (1), release the front wheel drive half shaft (2) from the front differential carrier.
9. Front Wheel Drive Half Shaft - Left Side (1) » Remove

View attachment 6558

We'll have to agree to disagree on the tool used. That image looks like a pry bar. However, I have my reservations about that technique. If I'm able to get a slide hammer in there I'm going to use it. Reason being is you get more control on releasing the cv axle via a larger contact area with the slide hammer. You're less likely to damage something. I've seen seals get damaged, and the retaining ring on the end of the axle become damaged so that it doesn't release the axle Just my opinion. I have my reasons for my way, and you have yours. Do as you wish. Like math oftentimes, it's possible to solve a problem using a different method and still reach the correct answer.

 

[Gangly]

We'll have to agree to disagree on the tool used. That image looks like a pry bar. However, I have my reservations about that technique. If I'm able to get a slide hammer in there I'm going to use it. Reason being is you get more control on releasing the cv axle via a larger contact area with the slide hammer. You're less likely to damage something. I've seen seals get damaged, and the retaining ring on the end of the axle become damaged so that it doesn't release the axle Just my opinion. I have my reasons for my way, and you have yours. Do as you wish. Like math oftentimes, it's possible to solve a problem using a different method and still reach the correct answer.

Great Video.

 

[Trail_Boss_6.2]

We'll have to agree to disagree on the tool used. That image looks like a pry bar. However, I have my reservations about that technique. If I'm able to get a slide hammer in there I'm going to use it. Reason being is you get more control on releasing the cv axle via a larger contact area with the slide hammer. You're less likely to damage something. I've seen seals get damaged, and the retaining ring on the end of the axle become damaged so that it doesn't release the axle Just my opinion. I have my reasons for my way, and you have yours. Do as you wish. Like math oftentimes, it's possible to solve a problem using a different method and still reach the correct answer.

Great video - I replace a rear once on a "non Chevy". It had an independent rear suspension (thought it was a solid axle. otherwise wouldn't have touched). Ran into issues getting the axles out when a neighbor came over. The trick to removing these with the friction ring is a jolt to get the ring to compress. Just putting pressure on it won't get it to come out as that is how it is designed to hold it in (I tired a hydraulic body tool - no luck) neighbor came over and in 10-15 minutes of banging on it with pry bar, it finally came out.

In short - requires jolt from something like the video shows - Now i'll be looking for that slide hammer for my tool box.

 

[JBJ]

Looking around, it looks like I can get a new GM axle for about $190 from GM parts direct, and the install seems like less work than I thought. No YouTube videos of our trucks, but a walkthrough from GMtucks....


Maybe I missed something, but why not just put a new boot on?

 

[Transient]

Looking around, it looks like I can get a new GM axle for about $190 from GM parts direct, and the install seems like less work than I thought. No YouTube videos of our trucks, but a walkthrough from GMtucks....


Maybe I missed something, but why not just put a new boot on?

There's something about these boots that makes them extra fragile. Just look at all the warnings from ReadyLift and other aftermarket companies. I agree a boot would make more sense, but we are dealing with a company that goes out of its way to ensure it gets a many dollars as possible. That's why they are fighting "Right to work on your own vehicle" legislation.

 

[Grey]

Maybe I missed something, but why not just put a new boot on?

From what I can gather, there just isn’t a good way to put a new boot on that won’t fail again later. Seems like the design of the shaft is a one and some sort of thing, at least if you try to install the boot while the shaft is still on the truck. I’ve seen some guys say that they are saving the old shaft to try to fix with a new boot, but haven’t heard the results. If I’m going to go through the work to get to the boot, I’m just going to do something that I believe will be a more permanent fix.

 

[Grey]

We'll have to agree to disagree on the tool used. That image looks like a pry bar. However, I have my reservations about that technique. If I'm able to get a slide hammer in there I'm going to use it. Reason being is you get more control on releasing the cv axle via a larger contact area with the slide hammer. You're less likely to damage something. I've seen seals get damaged, and the retaining ring on the end of the axle become damaged so that it doesn't release the axle Just my opinion. I have my reasons for my way, and you have yours. Do as you wish. Like math oftentimes, it's possible to solve a problem using a different method and still reach the correct answer.

Much appreciate the video. And I don’t necessarily disagree. I’ve never even had a vehicle with CV shafts so any service to them is new to me. I deferred to the GM service manual that said to use a pry tool, but GM is also the company that decided to install lifters in these trucks made from taco shells. If I can rent a slide hammer at advance, I’ll try that.

 

[Gangly]

Much appreciate the video. And I don’t necessarily disagree. I’ve never even had a vehicle with CV shafts so any service to them is new to me. I deferred to the GM service manual that said to use a pry tool, but GM is also the company that decided to install lifters in these trucks made from taco shells. If I can rent a slide hammer at advance, I’ll try that.

You can rent them from local auto parts stores. I rented one from Autozone.

 

[Cabin 4]

Thanks everyone. I was 99% sure when I saw it, but appreciate the confirmation.

Called the dealer and made an appointment to have them take a look. I have never gone to dealer to fix anything on a vehicle because all my previous stuff has been OOW before I bought it.

Dealer already throwing around the notion that the SST kit caused the issue therefore no warranty coverage. Hasn’t seen it yet, but says the increased angle of the shaft would cause the boot to rub and degrade. There’s only 13k on the clock. I don’t think anything would degrade that fast. I’ll fill you all in once I meet with them.

No surprise.

 

[Cabin 4]

No surprise. It's pretty clear from the pics the front level up is way out of OE spec. That is most likely the root of the problem. The companies that sell these AT4/TB level up kits have got this wrong for years. First it was the stock UCA ball joint failures which was a clear safety issue. So they finally fixed that with the aftermarket UCA redesigns. And now the warning/disclaimers are all there about the UCA upgrade requirement.

But they can never fix the CV axle issue unless they push you to a real front lift kit which cost a ton more, is far more complicated, will void the EO warranty and is irreversible. At a factory 2 inch lift, the AT4/TB is already at the far reach of the OE design margin. You can maybe, get away with 0.5 level up on these. Every truck is a bit different but 0.5 should be okay (emphasize "should"). Beyond that, you are in the risk zone of breaching the margins of the overall front drive/suspension design. Bilstein says you can go up 1, and stay within the OE margin but even that is a safety statement for the UCA, ball joints, steering, etc. It has nothing to do with your CVs. A failed CV is not a safety issue. Other kit companies also warn of risk to the AWD mode/CV damage. Basically, that's a huge red flag that tells us, their kit is screwing up the overall system of these very expensive trucks. Buyer beware. Do the research and ask a lot of questions. Adding mods to the front suspension is a big deal and just because the mod part(s) fit, does not mean it really works.

 

[Grey]

No surprise. It's pretty clear from the pics the front level up is way out of OE spec. That is most likely the root of the problem. The companies that sell these AT4/TB level up kits have got this wrong for years. First it was the stock UCA ball joint failures which was a clear safety issue. So they finally fixed that with the aftermarket UCA redesigns. And now the warning/disclaimers are all there about the UCA upgrade requirement.

But they can never fix the CV axle issue unless they push you to a real front lift kit which cost a ton more, is far more complicated, will void the EO warranty and is irreversible. At a factory 2 inch lift, the AT4/TB is already at the far reach of the OE design margin. You can maybe, get away with 0.5 level up on these. Every truck is a bit different but 0.5 should be okay (emphasize "should"). Beyond that, you are in the risk zone of breaching the margins of the overall front drive/suspension design. Bilstein says you can go up 1, and stay within the OE margin but even that is a safety statement for the UCA, ball joints, steering, etc. It has nothing to do with your CVs. A failed CV is not a safety issue. Other kit companies also warn of risk to the AWD mode/CV damage. Basically, that's a huge red flag that tells us, their kit is screwing up the overall system of these very expensive trucks. Buyer beware. Do the research and ask a lot of questions. Adding mods to the front suspension is a big deal and just because the mod part(s) fit, does not mean it really works.

Im 100% aware that any suspension modification in any way is a balancing act, and that applies to all vehicles. The CV's are at best at the edge of tolerance after the SST kit, but im not convinced that a +2 lift is an automatic death sentence in these trucks.

In this case I am 100% convinced that the problem was the INSTALL of the lift, not the lift itself. The lift had been on for a few hundred miles when I spotted this. The day of the install was frustrating and had a surprise thunder shower. I was annoyed and fed up with cheap spring compressors by the time I got to the passenger side. I know I knicked that boot or let that knuckle hang too low out of carelessness. This particular story is a testament to a bad install, not a bad part.

 

[Cabin 4]

Understood. Lots to consider here. Proper install is clearly one as well is the height of the level up is also defiantly another aspect. Some of these level ups are too high and the front drive/CV dilemma comes into play. Every truck can be a bit different due to other factors.

 

[Transient]

So, the question I think needs to be asked is who makes a longer cv axle for our trucks so we can add these level kits without worrying about our cv axles? My Google-fu isn't fantastic, and I can't seem to find anything that says, "These are the axles you need." However, I did find these. Could somebody that's more knowledgeable on this topic than I please help point us in the right direction? I found these from NAPA and think they may be a solution, but I truly don't know.

Extended Travel CV Axles - NAPA New Premium C.V. Axles

napacvaxles.com