Hi there! I’m hoping someone can answer this question. I have a brand new 2022 LT Trail Boss and I want to upgrade the speakers. No one I’ve talked to seems to know what size the stock speakers are (6x9, 6.5 etc). I don’t want to make any modifications to the door so I’m looking for something that will fit with what’s already there, which means I also need to know the depth. I assume there hasn’t been much change made from the 2021 but I could be wrong. I’ll add this did not have the Bose speakers. I bought some off Crutchfield and the guy was super knowledgeable but they haven’t done measurements for the 2022 yet. Any advice is appreciated!
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The dash is completely different as are the door cards from the 19-21 models. They could have changed sizes or kept the same sizes like they have since the 2014 models. Your best bet at this time is to take a look for yourself. You could report back your findings to help future 2022 and newer model owners.
I’m thinking you’re right. Crutchfield didn’t even have the dimensions, which I assume is just because it’s brand new. I can at least say I’m confident that they take 6x9s in the front but I’m not sure about the depth measurements. I’ll definitely post them for other people!
GETGONE
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The refreshed 22's aren't even out yet. He has the limited "old" body style. The front doors are 6x9's and the rear doors are 6.5's. The dash has 2.75" speakers. I just picked up a set of PAC adapters and wiring harness adapters. I haven't had a change to pull it apart and swap speakers. The PAC adapters have the option to do 6.5/6.75 and the rears can do 6.5/6.75 as well. There's almost no speakers in 2.75" size for the dash. The PAC 6x9 adapters have a tweeter plate molded in so you can bolt a surface mount tweeter to it in the stock location.
Wait, so you're saying I probably have a fake 2022? Is there a year cutoff for this?
So far everything I've been looking up, I've just put in the info for the 2021 because 2022 isn't showing in some systems.
That makes sense to call the refreshed ones 2023 since they will probably be avail about the normal time for the 23 model yr
I ended up returning the equipment I bought (focale’s) after learning that I wouldn’t really see that much of a difference from the stock speakers. As it was explained to me, GM basically makes it impossible to switch the head unit and then has it automatically modifies the sound outputs to prevent you from blowing your speakers. Right or wrong that’s what I’m told. Since there’s nothing wrong with the stock speakers I decided I would just keep them. I’m no audiophile I just wanted high quality speakers. Ive put 2000 miles on the truck waiting to have it all installed and had no issues with the audio so I’ll keep my $1200!
I was looking around, between Crutchfield and eBay, I was finding kits with speakers/mounts/wiring adapters for $100-$130 range for front and rear. Each kit would definitely net some better output over factory.
I'm not buying now, but eventually will. The factory speakers are about 8ohm and most aftermarket are 4ohm. Due to the less resistance, more power can be pulled from the OE head unit. It may have some safety features to prevent pulling too much power, but so long as you don't go over the top with 120W RMS speakers, you should notice a better bass, mid and high from a 2 or 3 way speaker verses the factory paper cone 1 way 8ohn 15W speakers.
You are correct that most aftermarket mids and tweeters are 4 ohm. Our truck speakers are also 4 ohm though, not 8ohm. My HHR had 2 ohm factory speakers. It is likely that the Bose stereos use 2 ohm speakers too.
The speakers wattage ratings are just ratings of what they can handle. That number does not dictate how much power an amp puts out. They do not PULL more or less wattage from an amp. The resistance changes how easily the amp can make power though. A better way to say your statement would be to say the lower 4 ohm load would allow the amp to make more power. You can safely run a 120 watt speaker on a 15 watt amp. It will not hurt it at all as long as the ohm load is within the correct range for the amp.
Amps and HU's have ohm load ranges that they play safely in. You need to stay within that range. You would not be able to run 2ohm speakers safely off a HU that is rated for 4ohm as its lowest. Your example does fall into this but if the HU or amp was only rated for an 8ohm load then a 4ohm speaker would be bad for it.
2 and 3 way speakers generally do not have better bass response than a 1 way driver. Bass response in mids varies so much that there is no golden rule. A lot of midbass response from mids comes from install. Things like sound deadening, foam trim between door card and front of speaker and separating the front and back waves from one another really help to achieve good midbass response.
4 ohm speakers are not automatically louder than 8 ohm speakers. Loudness is a function of wattage fed to and efficiency of the speaker. For every doubling of wattage there is a theoretical gain of 3dbs. Halving ohm load theoretically doubles the power of an amp. Looking at just the wattage increase makes it look like you would be 3 dbs higher with the 4ohm speaker vs the 8ohm speaker. But there is still the efficiency number that comes in play here. In many cases the 4ohm sibling of an 8ohm speaker will have the same rated efficiency number. Remember that you gain 3dbs when you double power. You also loose that 3dbs when you have the power. When measuring the efficiency of a speaker it is measured at 2.831volts. For an 8ohm speaker this is equal to 1watt of power. For the 4ohm speaker, this is equal to 2 watts. As you can see the 4ohm speaker had to double it's wattage to get to that same db rating that the 8ohm speaker has. When you do the math you end up at the same total db listening level for both speakers.
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Yes the HU can't be changed at this time. Yes the HU pulls bass as the volume is turned up. YES YES YES aftermarket speaks can sound better even off the factory HU.
Okay, I had enough of the factory craptastic paper cone speakers.
I just wanted something better for now. So I bought some cheap JVC 3-way 6x9's and 2-way 6.5's. They're 45w and 30w respectively with a high sensitivity rating of 92db. The magnets on the 6x9's are almost the same as factory and the 6.5's are slightly larger.
I made sure to fix any gaps between the speakers and mounts, mounts and door panels. So I used 1/4" wide by 1/16" thick adhesive foam. This way I could seal between the door and mount. And the mount and speaker. As well, on the 6.5's I used some on the other mounting holes that weren't used, these would have caused air movement noise and would have sounded like ish!
So, before and after?!
Before, half volume and the bass would plateau. It didn't really punch or pop, and sounded pretty generic like a boom box.
After, highs are clear, and mid range/mid bass are definitely better. The bass climbs, as well the overall volume level, as the volume is increased. So the "myth" that the bass is throttled via amp, is incorrect!
I did buy the cheapest speakers available at this time, and they're a few notches over the factory speakers. I'll probably get something slightly better in time, and need to find a way to seal better the speaker and door panel cover, so I'm not losing any sound inside the door.
Also, I had to fix the holes in the passenger side door grill, the moulding process left a lot of material behind.
TLDR; yes, factory low end stereo with better speakers was a good upgrade and about 3x better sounding than factory paper cone speakers.
I just wanted something better for now. So I bought some cheap JVC 3-way 6x9's and 2-way 6.5's. They're 45w and 30w respectively with a high sensitivity rating of 92db. The magnets on the 6x9's are almost the same as factory and the 6.5's are slightly larger.
I made sure to fix any gaps between the speakers and mounts, mounts and door panels. So I used 1/4" wide by 1/16" thick adhesive foam. This way I could seal between the door and mount. And the mount and speaker. As well, on the 6.5's I used some on the other mounting holes that weren't used, these would have caused air movement noise and would have sounded like ish!
So, before and after?!
Before, half volume and the bass would plateau. It didn't really punch or pop, and sounded pretty generic like a boom box.
After, highs are clear, and mid range/mid bass are definitely better. The bass climbs, as well the overall volume level, as the volume is increased. So the "myth" that the bass is throttled via amp, is incorrect!
I did buy the cheapest speakers available at this time, and they're a few notches over the factory speakers. I'll probably get something slightly better in time, and need to find a way to seal better the speaker and door panel cover, so I'm not losing any sound inside the door.
Also, I had to fix the holes in the passenger side door grill, the moulding process left a lot of material behind.
TLDR; yes, factory low end stereo with better speakers was a good upgrade and about 3x better sounding than factory paper cone speakers.
Now I'm obtaining everything to add a subwoofer. Just looking to add a single 12" subwoofer. I've got great mid/high sound, needs something to fill the lows, but without taking up too much space.
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