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Shock absorbers Bilstein / Liftkit

Granted, this is a Readylift arm....but a 9" wide zero offset wheel....plenty of room, most likely would clear stock arms....
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Granted, this is a Readylift arm....but a 9" wide zero offset wheel....plenty of room, most likely would clear stock arms
I'd really like to install the 6112 on the front and 5100 on rear, if I install the ready lift 1.75 on stock 6112 setting is it any better or worse than adjusting the 6112 to the 1.75 ring, is installing the ready lift worth the extra expense ?
After market Uca will be installed as well either way and a zero offset rim.
Just wanna level off the truck, i dont really off road it too much and never tow, so i feel like the Bilstiens will be quite adequate
 
if the SHOCK ALLOWS the addition height...USE THAT, dont waste the money...and you could change enough geometry that the arms hit the coils.
 
if the SHOCK ALLOWS the addition height...USE THAT, dont waste the money...and you could change enough geometry that the arms hit the coils.
Thanks Stormin....since i'll be able to save a bit of cash not purchasing the Ready Lift, can you suggest a compatible and well built UCA to use other than a Ready arm
 
Hello, I'm looking for a better quality replacement for my original Ranchos, because one has already broken and I don't have much confidence in it. However, they should not be higher than the original shock absorbers, just better quality. I found the one from Bilstein B 5100. What do you think, does anyone have experience with this?

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I would later raise the front shock absorbers by 1.75 inches with the kit from Readylift, so that it stands nice and horizontal. Does anyone know this? Does 4WD still work with this lift kit or are there other limitations?

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Because I'm not so familiar with these things, I prefer to ask the professionals ;-))

Thank you!
I have experience with Jackit and it is NOT good! Impossible to track an order and slower than a dead snail in shipping. And if sent an email with request for info...never a reply is received!
 
Thanks Stormin....since i'll be able to save a bit of cash not purchasing the Ready Lift, can you suggest a compatible and well built UCA to use other than a Ready arm
in reality, ANY reputable named tubular would be my recommendation. Readylift is a decent option for 90% of the drivers. for the price the readylift is a bargain and you could always sell the LEVEL SPACER to a standard silverado owner...


 
in reality, ANY reputable named tubular would be my recommendation. Readylift is a decent option for 90% of the drivers. for the price the readylift is a bargain and you could always sell the LEVEL SPACER to a standard silverado owner...


Got ya....your point of buying the Ready Lift Kit does make sense...i'm thinking thiers about 10-12 Silverados on my construction site..lol
Thanks again for the input !!
 
Thanks Stormin....since i'll be able to save a bit of cash not purchasing the Ready Lift, can you suggest a compatible and well built UCA to use other than a Ready arm
Or get the ready lift and shocks of your choice and allow shocks to have full compression versus cranking up the height and losing some of the damping range .. well that’s what i did .. haven’t bottomed out yet… and you get the one ton upper ball joints with the ready lift
 
Or get the ready lift and shocks of your choice and allow shocks to have full compression versus cranking up the height and losing some of the damping range .. well that’s what i did .. haven’t bottomed out yet… and you get the one ton upper ball joints with the ready lift
That definetly is another option JP, i like the idea of purchasing the ready lift, the price is right either way for 2 UCA's at least
 
All I can say is do it right! Pay the money if needed! I never look at the cost of the best. From my 69 Camaro to my Range Rover to my Trail Boss to my daily driver a 2005 Honda Civic with 247K miles. Its always pay me now or pay me later. Out of all of them... best is my 2005 Honda.
 
I did that almost exact set up ready lift 2.0 with 5100’s all around .. there is a thread on here some where from a couple of years ago when I did it… very happy with it no issues running 35/12.50 on ICON 18’s zero offset mudflap delete .
Hate to bring up an old thread, but I currently have readylift 2.0 kit and I’m looking to upgrade shocks and wanted the 5100’s. I was told by Shock Surplus I can’t do that… can I not install the 5100’s at stock height and it would be the exact same as my current stock Ranchos?
 
i am hoping you read my answer to YOUR post regarding this very question...like i mentioned, SOME aftermarket shocks (as are the ranchos) will allow for a TOP or BOTTOM or BOTH spacer.

a reputable company will not elude to a variable that could jeopardize them or you...

i spoke about learning this suspension and what you COULD do.

Here is an animation...let it load, watch and try to learn how MOVING the assembly changes the action and results....this is how ball joints snap with zero miles of use...

these animations also indicate a 2WD vehicle...so now factor the front half shaft in there, and the BODY of the shock...can be moved and make contact with the shaft.

You really need to understand the space and relationship of all the parts. Some have a large OD coil, some have a longer lower shaft length...EACH BRAND VARIES SLIGHTLY and any MODIFICATION outside of what they says will fit, has to verified by you...or one of the many on this site who have tried....some have had good results, other not so much

again, pleased to provide any on how we can, to get your ride SAFE and sitting how you want it.

reach out the LTW Motorsports, talk through your plan...they have a lot of good info also...
TB IFS Front Suspension.webp
 
i am hoping you read my answer to YOUR post regarding this very question...like i mentioned, SOME aftermarket shocks (as are the ranchos) will allow for a TOP or BOTTOM or BOTH spacer.

a reputable company will not elude to a variable that could jeopardize them or you...

i spoke about learning this suspension and what you COULD do.

Here is an animation...let it load, watch and try to learn how MOVING the assembly changes the action and results....this is how ball joints snap with zero miles of use...

these animations also indicate a 2WD vehicle...so now factor the front half shaft in there, and the BODY of the shock...can be moved and make contact with the shaft.

You really need to understand the space and relationship of all the parts. Some have a large OD coil, some have a longer lower shaft length...EACH BRAND VARIES SLIGHTLY and any MODIFICATION outside of what they says will fit, has to verified by you...or one of the many on this site who have tried....some have had good results, other not so much

again, pleased to provide any on how we can, to get your ride SAFE and sitting how you want it.

reach out the LTW Motorsports, talk through your plan...they have a lot of good info also...
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hey there, I did see your reply on my post. I responded with a few questions but didn’t hear anything back. These animations are great info
 

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